nss New York Fashion Week FW19 Awards

The New York Fashion Week dedicated to the FW19 womenswear is over. Many proposals that have alternated these days, few names of great importance and even less, as underlines Cathy Horyn on The Cut, "collections really interesting or relevant on the catwalks." A signal that confirms the collapse of the power of fashion American to the advantage of the European, now a truly international style referee. If on-the-spot ideas are missing, the solution that many designers have adopted is that of transforming fashion shows into happenings. In fact, this year to win is the rock concert format with Lil Pump that performs by Philip Plein, with the models that do stage diving as happened by Telfar or who sing loudly grunge hymns, as in the tribute to Courtney Love and her band Hole seen by Batsheva. On a strictly stylistic level, there is an increasingly extreme accentuation of two opposites: on the one hand the refined intellectual minimalism of The Row, Helmut Lang or Proenza Schouler; while on the other there are the bizarre, but captivating, virtuosities of Vaquera or Tomo Koizumi. The third way to success is to rework the past, that of others, as Marc Jacobs chose to quote, citing Cristobal Balenciaga and Yves Saint Laurent, or his own, like Tom Ford, who re-proposed his 90s creations made for Gucci.

And the winners are ...

Best Show: Tom Ford

The concern for everything that is happening in the world has pushed Tom Ford to create a tailored sartorial collection, based on the codes of the elegance of the 90s, the same that made the designer famous when he worked at Gucci. It is a wardrobe made of wide and enveloping coats, long dresses with deep necklines decorated with chains, but above all refined men's trousers inspired by men, made sensual by unbuttoned shirts and satin and velvet. Monochromatic looks made even more special by a palette that alternates red, purple, black, forest tones, shades of gray and pastel blue. That's class. 

Best Supporting Actor: The Row

Keywords: cleanliness, minimalism and natural palette. The Olsen twins, the heads of The Row, can once again confirm their identity, the love for exaggeration that does not lead to excess, the oversize that becomes synonymous of art and femininity.

Best Revelation: NPC

Volt, puffy, urban style and baby carriers. NPC is the revelation of this NYFW because it has shown that it knows how to mix a series of street trends with intuition and taste, mixing different fabrics and nuances as only a new talent with a look towards the future can do. The must have? Without doubt the over shoulder bag.

Best Sneaker: John Elliott x Nike LeBron Icon Gold 

Impossible not to have noticed them during the show: they are the new Nike LeBron Icon designed by the Californian brand. A sneaker created for lifestyle but inspired by basketball featuring a translucent gold upper with white details, a mini Swoosh on the front and a Nike Air logo on the tongue.

Best Location: Oscar de la Renta 

Inside a garden full of plants, flowers and colors, models are paraded, leaving behind a charming, imposing and romantic church, just like the FW19 collection.

Best performance: Philipp Plein