Courrèges takes us on a wind-in-the-hair tour with its FW25 pre-collection
Between circles, cycles and motorcycles, a gentle wind of rebellion blows over the French House
January 15th, 2025
Last September, Courrèges, its SS25, and its slow waltz of cocoons in full bloom left the Carreau du Temple in Paris and the entire fashion sphere breathless. This January, the house returns with an equally spectacular FW25 pre-collection. Circles, cycles, and motorcycles: these are the three guiding themes of the French brand's pre-collection, presented on January 13. Stripped of its edges, last season's Magic Square transforms into this season's Magic Circle, a visual anchor framing this geometric wardrobe interpretation. While the inspiration for the previous collection came from an archival duchess satin cape from André Courrèges' FW62 show, the FW25 collection stems directly from the personal style imagination of Gianni Piacentino, a conceptual artist from the mid-1970s known for his balanced blend of minimalist methods and a daring cult of motorcycles.
Both an obsession and a signature for Nicolas Di Felice, the biker takes center stage in this season's constructions and details: from embossed logo sleeves to press-stud collar jerseys and strapped boots, the deconstructed features of bikerwear recur throughout the refreshed designs, bringing a rebellious vibe in their wake. At the intersection of circular constructions and a cyclical progression that is Di Felice's hallmark, the body expresses a geometric sensuality that softens the rock-inspired, daring storytelling of the pre-collection. Black vinyl patchwork on skirts, accessories, and outerwear evokes car upholstery and intertwined fetishes, while micro-stud tulle or tattoo effect, laminated ivory lace, and embossed python-effect leather bras add texture to the garments and introduce a playful femininity that feeds the intrigue of contemporary Courrèges.
Rendered in a palette of neutral tones, ranging from the chic and elegant deep black characteristic of the house and Di Felice's signature to soft, soothing cream, the pre-collection's curves and textures are the perfect blend of rock and softness, light and shadow, darkness and light. Like the trucker jacket, bomber, tracksuit, or baseball cap, the biker combines the raw functionality of workwear with the subcultural symbolism that defines Courrèges tailoring. As the talented designer capable of juggling diverse aesthetics that he is, Di Felice, in this pre-collection embodying the inherent openness and universality of the Courrèges house, once again shows the world the ultimate goal of the French brand: elevating clothing, whether tailored for a motorcycle ride or an elegant evening out.