Alberta Ferretti will no longer design Alberta Ferretti

The news came as a surprise: in a letter, Alberta Ferretti revealed her decision to step down from the creative leadership of the brand that bears her name. A farewell that marks the end of an era for the small brand founded in 1981, when Ferretti presented her first collection on the catwalk, and that over the course of forty years has become a major force in Italian-made fashion retail. In her letter, Ferretti described her choice as «difficult, complicated, but very thoughtful» announcing that she will still remain as a support figure for the brand, as well as the owner. «I believe it’s time to make room for a new narrative for my brand», wrote Ferretti, whose brand will not change its name and for which a successor at the helm of design will soon be announced. The role she will maintain within the Aeffe group, which she founded and which also includes brands like Moschino and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, will be that of vice president and thus supervisor of the growth of the entire group.

Alberta Ferretti's decision comes at a time when her brand, which started as a small family business, has grown into a global giant with over 1,500 employees. Her last show took place on September 17 during Milan Fashion Week, where she presented the SS25 collection. However, the announcement should not be seen as a farewell: while the fashion world hopes for a return to growth expected in the first half of 2025, brands like Ferretti's, which are highly popular in the middle market, can take advantage of this moment to reposition themselves in the market. In this sense, a new designer, especially a young and talked-about one, could turn the page for the brand and lead it to a new audience on the wave of Moschino's rebranding in the Appiolaza era – somewhat similar to what has happened in recent years with Blumarine and certainly what Marco Bizzarri hopes to happen with Elisabetta Franchi, a brand in which the former Gucci CEO and now entrepreneur has invested.

In her letter, Ferretti joked that some might think she will now dedicate herself to rest, but added: «Whoever thinks that doesn't know me well enough». The designer and entrepreneur expressed confidence in the upcoming transition, which is expected to be announced shortly, stating that it will have her full support. According to our forecasts, it is not so much a rebranding to expect (the brand has a very loyal customer base that should not be disturbed) but rather a shift in direction: something similar to the elevation towards fashion achieved in recent years by Diesel, which exploded onto the scene thanks to Glenn Martens, but also The Attico, which quickly transitioned from simple apparel to becoming a Milanese runway favorite, elevating itself significantly in a relatively short time. In Ferretti’s case, a repositioning aimed at expanding the brand's target, possibly by appealing to Gen Z along the lines of Marc Jacobs and his Heaven. One thing is certain: we will hear from Alberta Ferretti again.