The best moments of Copenhagen Fashion Week SS25

The SS25 of Copenhagen Fashion Week has demonstrated not only that the Danish capital can compete with its European rivals, but also that Scandinavian style today encompasses many things, not just minimalism. From (di)vision’s Y2K stuffed toys to Ekroth's Finnish poetry, here’s everything you missed from CPHFW.

STEL

Astrid Andersen, founder of the eponymous cult streetwear brand popular among cool kids worldwide, returns to the scene and makes her contribution to womenswear with her new brand, Stel, and the styling of longtime friend Asap Nast. The brand's connection to Danish design is evident right from the choice of location, a crane transformed into a luxury accommodation in the capital's harbor, The Krane. Combining functionality and a specific industrial taste, Stel represents a "2.0" version of Andersen's design arc, 15 years after the launch of her eponymous brand. The garments are versatile and inclusive, the materials unexpected, with a price point that promises to satisfy even aspirational customers.

(di)vision

The SS25 collection of (di)vision presents an eclectic mix of men's and women's clothing, with unique upcycled pieces inspired by urban maximalism and video games. Vintage denim, lace, jersey, animal prints, plaid, and an abundance of stuffed toys add a playful touch to a universe that blends grunge and Y2K. Among the surprises of the show was a capsule collection created in collaboration with Brazilian it-girl Livia, who was also the star of (di)vision’s previous AW23 campaign. Additionally, there’s a partnership with The Ordinary, the brand that democratized skincare, celebrated with a dress entirely made using beauty product packaging.

Han Kjøbenhavn

In Jannik's imagination, Danish fairy tales meet Demna. A universe of dark shades, structured garments, oversized footwear, with some hints of femininity and sweetness, especially towards the end: a white veil that becomes a dress. Sculptural garments with deep necklines, chunky boots, and exaggerated shoulders dominated the runway: “Denim and eco-leather play a significant role in this collection, as they are personal references to my youth and the clothes the boys wore at the local mall,” said Han Kjøbenhavn's creative director, Jannik Wikkelsø Davidsen. He describes the collection as a tribute to his upbringing and the way youth shaped relationships and friendships back then: “It's a story of boys - the concrete royals.”

Henrik Vibskov

Although the eponymous brand occasionally ventures into the schedules of canonical fashion capitals, Henrik Vibskov brought his SS25 collection back to Denmark, "The Orchestra of the Soft Assistance", which had already debuted in Milan last June. White drapes lifted by ropes and red hands in the setting: a symbolic exploration of empathy (or lack thereof) between the human and animal realms. Hands, paws, and “tentacles of all kinds” were the recurring motif, amid colorful prints and silhouettes that blend the fairytale and the futuristic.

Rolf Ekroth

Traditional music, colorful prints, and poetic masculinity define Ekroth’s new collection. Inspired by the "lavatanssit" - a traditional dance usually held outdoors or in a barn, Ekroth's SS25 collection draws heavily from Finnish culture, so much so that the designer admitted to using a series of Finnish illustrated books for inspiration in designing the garments. Floral prints and scarves tied around the neck are toned down by sweatshirts and Puma Speedcat, a romance made of contrasts.