All the winners of the IED Avant Défilé 2023
A first edition open to the city to celebrate the designers of tomorrow
June 30th, 2023
The fashion designers of tomorrow took to the streets for the first time with IED Avant Défilé 2023, to tell their story for two days in a place iconic for Milan, the Dazio di Levante, in a "container" with projects by the school's students. The first public event was attended by more than 800 professionals and companies, teachers, students, journalists, but also the general public. Participants voted on their favorite project after exploring the visions of the young talents in the 13 rooms of the Dazio, enlivened by as many collections of fashion design, shoes, and accessories, 17 protagonists in total.
«Fashion really does affect everyone in one way or another and it was really exciting to see ordinary people, tourists included, getting curious about the visions of the young IED designers in this first Avant Défilé of the city, alongside the insiders. The Dazio, such an important and imposing building in Milan's history, has lived and vibrated with personal stories over the last two days, with its own rhythm and identity. A container that resembles a beating heart, a vital organ that unites all individuals, with the projects on display resembling the heartbeat of living beings. Because as Fritz Lang said in his masterpiece Metropolis: the mediator between the hands and the head must be the heart» comments Olivia Spinelli, coordinator and creative director of the IED Milan Fashion Area and curator of the event.
Cristian Bogliano won the Press Award with his sportswear collection entitled Surrounded by Nobody, presented by Walter D'Aprile and Francesco Abazia, CEO & Co-Founder, and Head of editorial content of nss, respectively. The designer from Novara presented a proposal that breathes new life into the deadstock of sportswear - in collaboration with the companies MAEBA and TEXAL - proposing outfits dedicated to the less visible side of sportspeople rather than to moments of competition. Secondary' garments - overcoats, mackintoshes, outfits for training, leisure, even for injuries - «to emphasize what is hidden in the lives of sportsmen and women, and which unlike uniforms are not usually sold or distributed». Susy Zhang and Jieru Yang, on the other hand, deserved the Professionals, Designers, and Companies Award with the Natural Rhapsody collection, honored in an ideal handover by Marcello Pipitone, IED alumnus designer and recent winner of the Fashion Trust of Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. The graduates of Chinese origin convinced the voters with elegant garments in bio-leather created autonomously, using avocado seeds and pulp, natural dyes (black tea, eucalyptus, lonicera), and an alum capable of creating a crystallized effect, for an entirely sustainable and biodegradable collection: «we imagine a dystopian future, a world 150 years from now in which the only elements that can be traced back to nature are garments».
Francesco Saverio Matera and Alessio Baldasseroni won the audience award with the Materia collection: the designers from Matera and Castiglione delle Stivoli respectively. Castiglione delle Stiviere (Mantua) respectively, have focused on a proposal (already ready to be branded) that adapts to the physical needs of all people, including those with disabilities, with outfits in a genderless and functional aesthetic: «Our value proposition is an existentialist, adaptable fashion, a product resulting from a rethinking of the human dimension in its connection with spatiality and corporeality». Each of the 13 designers presented a personal and unique vision: of them all, Benedetta Bilato's fluorescent garments caught our attention with her disgust-inspired collection, a wearable and goliardic project that plays with patterns and textures, while Luna Ferrara created unique garments from discarded leather with a capsule that celebrated the Palio of Siena and the city's craft tradition.