Ben Gorham, a native Swede with an Indian mother and a Canadian father, has a diverse background that spans Toronto, New York, and Stockholm. His journey into perfumery began unexpectedly after earning a degree in fine arts from Stockholm Art School and a chance meeting with perfumer Pierre Wulff. «All my inspirations for creating a perfume are connected to personal memories. Places from my childhood, specific moments of my life. I then work closely with the perfumer to translate my ideas into a fragrance», Gorham explains. This personal touch has become the hallmark of his brand, Byredo. At Byredo, Gorham's vision is brought to life with the help of world-renowned perfumers Olivia Giacobetti and Jerome Epinette. «Developing a fragrance always starts with a briefing: some pictures, some raw materials I imagine, poetry, or a quote I like», says Gorham. His creative process is immersive and detailed, involving a variety of elements that together form the essence of his perfumes. «Inspiration really comes from everywhere. I carry a notebook where I jot down ideas about smells and when an idea is reoccurring or becomes strong enough I create a project that ultimately translates into a brief».
Gorham's method of creation is unconventional and deeply rooted in his experiences and observations. «I’m inspired by so many different things such as culture, history and people and my research is really traveling and meeting people. I'm constantly trying to understand and learn more about my environment. In terms of the whole process of creating a fragrance, it really varies, but can take quite a long time». This dedication to understanding and learning enriches the stories that each Byredo fragrance tells. One of Byredo’s most iconic scents is Mojave Ghost. «We really wanted to tell a story through both scent and place – both being so integral to this fragrance. We began with the Mojave Desert in Chapter 1, capturing its essence and raw beauty», Gorham shares. The fragrance evolves through multiple chapters, each adding a new dimension. «With Chapter 3, we expanded on different ways to wear Mojave Ghost, introducing new formats for hair, hands, and body. Chapter 4, that came out in June, has unveiled some exciting product innovations». The inspiration behind Mojave Ghost is both literal and symbolic. «With Mojave Ghost, I really wanted to capture something raw and profound, something that mirrors the resilience and beauty that you find in the Mojave Desert. The ghost flower, or mohavea confertiflora, is this incredible symbol of endurance. Despite being in such an arid environment and not producing nectar, it still manages to thrive and bloom with this ethereal beauty year after year. There's something incredibly powerful about that quiet strength, this survival against all odds».
Growing up amidst the varied landscapes of Sweden and Canada, Gorham developed a deep connection to nature. «The Californian scenery, with its majestic trees and serene wilderness, holds a special place in my heart. I'm particularly drawn to vast expanses of untamed land, and the Mojave Desert, with its unique flora, has a singular allure for me», he reflects. This connection is a significant influence on his work at Byredo. «At Byredo, we’re all about contrasts and the beauty that emerges from blending opposites. The ghost flower, mohavea confertiflora, perfectly embodies this. Despite its harsh, arid surroundings and its inability to produce nectar, it thrives with an ethereal beauty year after year», Gorham elaborates. This philosophy of contrast and resilience is woven into the fabric of Byredo's creations. «When I first encountered this flower, its fragile yet resilient nature struck a chord within me. To thrive in such an unforgiving environment is a testament to its quiet strength – a story that begs to be shared. Mojave Ghost is a tribute to this captivating story of survival and fortitude. It’s more than just a fragrance; it’s a connection to something deeper, something that resonates with the soul».
Gorham spoke precisely about the role that inwardness plays in creating one's fragrances: «Fragrance is completely subjective, and even though we have narratives and stories associated with our products, the name is the spark to get people to open their mind and engage with the product». Through Byredo, Ben Gorham continues to push the boundaries of luxury, creating products that are not only high in quality but also rich in meaning and inspiration. But the story is not over yet, the exploration of the great desert continues following a parable that makes scents a narrative, a progressive and evolving continuity. For Mojave Ghost, as Gorham reveals, «there's Chapter 5, which will tell a more refined and nuanced story. I’ll let you uncover that with time».
CREDITS:
Photographer: Ari Dash
Interview: Lorenzo Salamone