Browse all

Give me five: the best 5 moments of Paris Haute Couture SS17

Paris Haute Couture SS17

Give me five: the best 5 moments of Paris Haute Couture SS17 Paris Haute Couture SS17

Haute Couture is a dimension of pure beauty, or at least it should be. It's a space in which to make a dream come true. The fashion shows just finished in Paris are the mirror of this possibility. It doesn't matters if  the inspiration comes from the Greek statuary, from a masquerade or Snapchat. The result is the same: magic. Read and, above all, look below to believe it.

#1 Giambattista Valli


The “Musèe des Archives Nationales” in Paris, a place that preserves the “Armoir de fer”, where, along with other treasures, are conserved the letters of Marie Antoinette is filled with the jet set girls, glamour globetrotter. “Unconventional women who are not afraid of real beauty ...Curious, experimental, extravagant, with a nomad soul. And especially conscious of their femininity”. So Giambattista Valli defines the protagonists of his Haute Couture for SS17. They are contemporary princesses wearing pieces of fine Buccellati jewelry with simple tunics and cocktail ball gown with giant proportions, mixe virginal lace and crumpled tissues, folk references and floral patterns inspired by the sumptuous Persians Moughal gardens. From fake understatement mini dresses, passing through the ultra chic pyjama, to the clouds of tulle dresses reminiscent of courtesans, as the daywear gives way to evening the volume swell. Fouthy-six look that once again confirm Valli's great talent to give substance to a dream, creating elegant, a bit quirky, retro yet current clothes.

#2 Dior


Another debut collection, this time with the haute couture, designed by Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior comes from a dream world and turns into reality thanks to the skill of the many craft workers who work with the fashion house
. As many little fairies who create the ball dress for tens of Cinderella, each of them work with Italian designers, creating a collection that pays tribute to the heritage of Dior and its founder Monsieur Christian. There are many themes loved by the man: the surrealist hints, tarot, astrological elements, flowers. There is a lot of his fashion starting from the legendary Bar jacket, which after the war marked a big change in style and now has a hood. Even the inspiration comes from Mr. Dior, from a picture taken in 1951 in Venice by Salvador Dali, where is masked as a lion for Don Carlos de Beistegui's party. So Chiuri through 59 look recalls the Marchesa Luisa Casati, Daisy Fellowes, Leonor Fini and Janine Janet, women with a whimsical elegance who really attended these balls. At the Musèe Rodin in Paris, between a ceiling mirrors, walls and floor covered by scented grass and moss with in the middle a big tree full of ribbons, crystal drops, bulbs and golden chains walks a row of young fairies, wrapped in romantic and sparkling fabrics that seem to come from a fairy tales. In this secret garden alternate black dresses, memory of male tuxedo, delicate colors, capes full of butterflies, lace and chiffon, evanescent long tulle skirts and discreet pinafores. Also the accessories are beautiful , Stephen Jones hat, from the wreaths to the animal shaped caps, as well as the unique jewelry created by Claude Lalanne. Applauding in the front row there is a long list of celebrities. Some names? Kirsten Dunst, Diane Kruger, Chiara Ferragni, Lauren Santo Domingo, Eva Herzigova, Olivia Palermo, Gaia Repossi, Bianca Jagger, all invited to the after show masquerade.

#3 Chanel


It all starts with Alberto Giacometti. There is his sculpture of the Twenties "Femme cuillère" behind the collection Chanel Haute Couture SS17. Karl Lagerfeld is inspired by the spoon-shaped work and silver to create to dress girls who seem "moving drawings, impeccable, rigorous and clean"These young mademoiselle have little shoulders, narrow waist and hips inflated, chignon ordered, anklets of pearls and rediscover the beauty of the tailleur. The classic tweed suit is painted with gray and pastel colors, it is made with a precious wool boucle and is worn with high waisted belt, silver decolletè and crushed Basque. Then, in a setting made of mirrors, arrive sequined top, skirts in marabou, fluffy ruffles and flounces. Everything shines, everything is light, luxury. Lily Rose Depp, bride in a pink cloud, closes the show.

#4 Maison Margiela


The reflection on the obsessive use of images and messages in social networks become a sophisticated reflection on fashion
. This week dedicated to the Haute Couture John Galliano introduces copy-paste and Snapchat deformed or funny faces in his collection for Maison Margiela. The designer embroiders childish scribbles, carving faces, superimposed materials and garments, but also periods and styles, drapes, models, deconstructs, ragged coats and trench to show their backbone. Each creation is flayed and reduced to its essential structure, focusing on the human element. It's fashion, but not only, is poetry and theater.

#5 Valentino


“I started from the famous quote: we are made of the same stuff as dreams are made, from Shakespeare's The Tempest. In couture, in fact, there is no time, as happens in dreams. There is eternity. It's a particular territory, enchanted with its laws and its rituals. I celebrated precisely the latter: the fact, for example, to cover every outfit, at the evening, with white tissue, like a living thing, to care with affection. That idea of veils that cover the clothes he finds himself on the catwalk. The tulle gives each look a sense of humanity, care, affection. True hides the embroideries, the atelier artifice. But in my opinion the returns exceptional depth”. With these words Pierpaolo Piccioli talks about Valentino Haute Couture collection. The designer takes all the atelier rites and mixes them with the Greek myths, part of our collective unconscious. Clothes, beautiful, evoke the image of divinity is from them are named. Apollo is a masterpiece of braids of tulle and chiffon in 15 different shades of yellow, there is Prometheus, chiton, ionic sleeveless tunic, lace decorated with velvet flames. There are Eurydice, dress-column crepe pleated, and Galatea a cascading chiffon embroidered with rhinestones and silver micro paillettes, but Galatea, Venus, Hera, Artemis, Demeter, for a total of 59 models. Valentine this time dress the purity, lightness, grace, elegance of essentiality.