Anthony Vaccarello's debut at Saint Laurent was a tribute to banality and bad taste

There is a reason why the '80s are over, and fashion has evolved towards a less ‘tacky' direction. All those who have experienced the decade, remember it for its excesses and bad taste, and it is no coincidence that for his disappointing debut at (Yves) Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello drew his inspiration from this very unfortunate period.

After months of wait, punctuated only by sterile black and white teasers, and an amateur-like advertising campaign starring model Anja Rubik – certainly not the face best suited to represent the zeitgeist – posing with her legs open in front of the camera – really, in 2016? – the Belgian designer formerly at Versus Versace brought on the catwalk a series of looks, 49 to be precise, which appeared only as a bad copy of his predecessor’s style.

From the collection, made up of asymmetrical mini dresses, mommy jeans, tops with sweetheart necklines, multiple variations of the tuxedo (too many?), two eccentric golden looks, leopard prints and lace, everything people talked about on social media was just a pair of pumps with a YSL shaped heel. The captions were equally banal: The Y is back!. As for the logo, Saint Laurent’s style took a decisive step back. While thinking of doing something positive and strategically smart for the future of the brand, the Kering Group opted instead for a designer hopelessly not up to this role.

Even when he tried to bring the provocation on the catwalk, with model Binx Walton wearing a black leather mini dress which left her nipple out (only covered by a silver sticker), not only it didn’t feel like the designer was joining the #freethenipple trend, but he only made it look kitsch.

There was actually something good about this show: Hedi’s glory was restored. Revenge is a dish best served cold.