Hello London #7 - London College of Fashion Graduate Show
Highlights
June 8th, 2016
Caught up in the graduate shows' storm, our interest was captured by London College of Fashion – another major institution among fashion schools, particularly known for its slightly more commercial approach.
Today, we space among three extremely different collections – for cuts, colour palettes and references that inspired them –, to bring you an all-female selection of up and coming designers we are ready to bet you'll hear of again.
#1 HANNI YANG
How would you describe your collection?
Weirdly elegant. Luxury and contemporary.
How did the idea for the collection come about?
The concept is about beauty of ugliness inspired from Butoh dancers Kazuo Ohno and Hijikata Tatsumi. It is also strongly impacted by the Vienna Actionist group. Questioning myself about what is beauty and ugliness is a huge part of my research.
Who are the designers that mainly influence your vision?
Yohji [Yamamoto] and Rei [Kawakubo] probably. It’s hard to say because they are not really what I want to be.
How did you decided you wanted to be a designer?
It just happened. I have never studied fashion/art/design before I came to London. The first time I joined a short course in UAL made me want to go into this and I enjoyed every second.
Future plans?
I already got the offer for MA menswear in London College of Fashion. After three years in womenswear I think I want some new challenges now. After master degree I would like to work for fashion houses as designer/pattern cutter. To be honest I don't think I am ready for my own label right now.
#2 ORELLE BRODET
How would you describe your collection?
In three words: fuzzy, colourful and happy
How did the idea for the collection come about?
This collection was inspired by childhood drawings, colouring books, teddy bears and paper dolls. It was really an expression of a carefree happy childhood versus the constrictions that adulthood brings.
Who are the designers that mainly influence your vision?
I don’t think it’s about any designers influencing my vision, I think it’s more colour that influenced this collection, it was my starting and ending point.
How did you decided you wanted to be a designer?
I’ve always known I wanted to be a designer, I have sketchbooks filled with designs from the age of 6. I used to take all my colours and close my door and ask my family “not to disturb my creativity”, all whilst spending my days designing.
Future plans?
I am currently working on an exhibition for Art Basel Miami with Lilienthal Art Studios for December 2016 and hope to spend that time building up my portfolio to apply for jobs in NYC.
#3 GAYANE ARZUMANOVA
How would you describe your collection?
This collection is about the contrast between softness and thickness, the illusion of what you see and what you feel, the power of wind, the beauty of stone texture.
How did the idea for the collection come about?
My collaboration team members and I worked together step by step to create this collection. Main inspiration comes from the natural aspects as wind and stone. My starting point was to create silhouettes that represents our ideas – each detail, each fold was thought out. Textile designer invented the idea of melted leather, jewellery partner created absolutely amazing masks, also using melting technique, but with plastic.
Who are the designers that mainly influence your vision?
There are designer that I admire of course. Some of them are Stella McCartney, Mugler, Jacquemus, but it never comes into my head when I am in process of creating my own collection.
How did you decided you wanted to be a designer?
I started sketching when I was about 6, only because my older sister was doing it. But I decided to become a fashion designer when I actually decided to go and get an education in fashion. I am happy that I had no doubt about what I want and trying to keep myself on this road, because I love it even it's complicated sometimes.
Future plans?
The plan is to get a place in the design department of a London-based fashion company, work in a team and learn more about this industry, communication between people and actual real fashion.