Saint Laurent at the Palladium Anatomy
Mind, eyes, mouth, heart
Fashion
February 11th, 2016
February 11th, 2016
Mouth
Los Angeles. Sunset Boulevard. The Hollywood Palladium. Saint Laurent presents its men’s FW16 and the first part of its women’s pre-fall collections. The front row is packed with celebrities, from Lady Gaga to Courtney Love, Justin Bieber, Alexa Chung, Sky Ferreira and Lenny Kravitz.
Everyone is there for him, Hedi Slimane, the designer who has renewed the French house with his indie rock touch, seducing fashion insiders, public and voguistas.
The rumours say this will be his farewell to SL, but as stated by François-Henri Pinault:"We are discussing, we have time till the end of March, no rush. Tonight is about celebrating the brand, celebrating Hedi, celebrating L.A., the music, all that. Nothing else".
His obsession for L.A. and the subcultures that animate it, including the cool kids the designer loves to portray in his Hedi Slimane Diary, are the inspiration for this show. There are Hendrix, David Bowie and Kurt Cobain, glam rock, mods, the Marquis de Sade, but also a tribute to Monsieur Yves and his iconic Rive Gauche collection, which turns 50 this year.
It's a tribute to leather jackets and skinny pants, blouses with bows, midi skirts, shorts, tuxedo, caftans and fur. It's a triumph of embroideries, sequins, inlays, military details, brocades, python prints, stars. Slimane created an impressive, baroque collection, mixing the ‘70s and ‘90s, male and female, an hybrid that screams coolness.
Eyes
Glam, Flamboyant, Androgynous
Mind
Saint Laurent - Beck
Saint Laurent - Yves Saint Laurent's Notes dress
Saint Laurent - Betty Catroux
Saint Laurent - Betty Catroux by Irving Penn. Vogue 1969
Saint Laurent - Betty Catroux and husband François the day of their marriage, 1968
Saint Laurent - Spencer Dryden of Jefferson Airplane
Saint Laurent - Thomas Robson
Saint Laurent - Yves Saint Laurent 1975 - Dandy's Daguerreotype
Heart/Art
71 between models and musicians, 93 looks, 13 band. Saint Laurent at The Palladium is a media event which pays homage to Los Angeles and the designer’s obsession for this place. In 2008 Hedi Slimane leaves the Ville Lumière, and moves to California carrying there YSL creative center.
Now, once again, he snubs Paris and its fashion week choosing The Palladium, Hollywood. It’s not a random location: it is one of the oldest and most prestigious concert venue ever, where the 58th edition of the Grammy Awards is about to start and where artists like the Rolling Stones, Bob Dylan and Led Zeppelin have played.
It is not just a set, but a clear declaration of intent: this will not be a simple show, but a real happening. As anticipated by a series of teasers, short clips in black and white starring Hedi’s muses: The Paranoyds, Jack Kilmer, Lucia Ribisi, Dylan Lee (Pamela Anderson and Tommy Lee’s son, here at his debut ), Kim and The Created.
The PyPy’s She's Gone starts and the show begins. On the runway Staz Lindes, Lida Fox, Binx Walton, Lili Sumner, Marjan Jonkman, Kiki Willems and the world of a man who has rock'n roll in his blood.
