The 5 best things about Paris Men's Fashion Week SS16
Give me five
June 29th, 2015
Paris Fashion Week, season after season, confirms to be a source of creative ideas and a city without boundaries, open to experimentation and evolution.
Here's our tribute to the five designers who have stood out for originality, innovation and charisma in these days of Parisian fashion.
Gosha Rubchinskiy? A one-way ticket to Russia, please...
The designer pays tribute to his homeland with a collection characterized by strong Soviets references. Russia, however, is reinterpreted in a 80s-sportswear twist and finished by generous Orwellian brushstrokes. Rubchinskiy looks at the history of clothing of his nation, mainly focusing on the clothes of the generation of the 80s. Why it is a one-way ticket? Because after seeing his SS16 collection, we don't want to go back.
#2 Y/PROJECT
Y/Project presents a collection with a double soul: a futuristic minimalism that matces with an opposite 90s oriented approach. Although the garments may seem simple and clean, with a closer look you can find particularly eye-catching aspects which make any look irresistible. The collection includes structured and gothic coats, pants and tops.
#3 SACAI
Sacai SS16 collection is an hybrid of periods, places and different genres. It's like when you wake up in the morning and grab the first clothes from the pile on the floor beside the bed. A random collection of items reflecting somehow the style inside each of us. A chaos that creates an unexpected beauty: here is a riot of Peruvian-inspired knits, embroidery ethnic, military coats, floral prints, checks and patchworks. Don't try to give an order to disorder: it would lose its sense.
#4 GIVENCHY
The man of Givenchy imagined by Riccardo Tisci is a prisoner who can only find his salvation refuging in faith and in the figure of Jesus Christ, the prisoner par excellence. The passion of the prisoners for Christ is like their devotion to the pin-ups on the walls of their cells. So, halfway between allegory and blasphemy, Tisci brings on the catwalk both figures, placing them on T-shirts, male skirts and sweatshirts. But the Givenchy SS16 collection is not only this: we also find an alternation of fluttering female figures in pastel tones which ends with a glittery Naomi Campbell: truly illegal.
#5 ACNE STUDIOS
Acne Studios SS16 collection recalls the androgynous trend of David Bowie in the 70s. Relaxed looks, fluid silhouettes, long tunics, soft coats and flared trousers are stronger than ever through a series of pop colours from yellow to blue to red. The only sour note of the whole symphony are perhaps the platform male boots, although they're in perfect harmony with the recent elimination of genres of the catwalks. Will we ever get used to this?