.jpg)
The best five things about Paris Women Fashion Week
Give me five
Fashion
March 11th, 2014
March 11th, 2014
Paris Fashion Week coincides with the last act of a play, with the grand finale of the Fall/Winter 2014 season we were all eager to discover. Give Me Five: today we propose you the five designers who have ravished the most our heart witnessing the spectacle of the Ville Lumière.
Constant experimentation, tireless inspiration, undeniable genius. Gareth Pugh is not only a designer, he's also a god creator who is able to give a physicality to his surreal way of perceiving the world. It 's a subversive figure that creates a small army of equally subversive figures. His latest collection is a kind of perverse exercise that aims to show that what is conceivable, for Pugh is also achievable. An aseptic total white, paradoxically, gives life to sculptural clothing, which is almost impossible to describe with words.
The "biopiracy" collection of Iris Van Herpen starts with a question: "Are we the sole proprietors of our body?". Fascinating but also disturbing question, as well as the atmosphere of the catwalk itself, made unique by the installation of Lawrence Malstaf, ethereal models packed and suspended in a suffocating plastic wrap. The audience is forced to deal with an imposed voyeurism, including a sense of confusion and a morbid curiosity. The impressive scenography is the setting for an as well significant collection: the silhouettes - characterized by geometric shapes - and the sculptural platforms, give the garments on the catwalk an alien flavor.
Before the start of Jacquemus' runaway show , each guest was provided with a suit and asked to wear it. Easy to imagine the amazement of the audience at the Palais de Tokyo, intimidated by the "stain " threat on the catwalk. But the runaway has only seen an alternation of - harmless - models with oversized looks in neoprene and organza, featuring three shades of blue, canary yellow, orange and B/W. So, why the suits? They were given in order to concentrate the audience who, fearing "dirty" twists, never removed their eyes from the catwalk. But also to entertain and engage guests in the visual experience, eliminating the traditional hierarchies from fashion week. A round of applause for Simon Porte.
The Valentino's FW14 collection is made up of two souls, which, despite of the differences, fit together like pieces of a puzzle. The first, refined, delicate, sweet and delicious, is composed by feminine dresses with precious inserts, animal prints, transparencies and overlays. The second is an ode to the '60s, to the pop art and to the works of Giosetta Fioroni. Valentino confirms itself a daydream from which, fortunately, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli don't have the slightest intention to wake us up.
Triomphe in Paris for Alessandro Dell'Acqua, who, taking the place of Marco Zanini for the direction of Rochas, received the blessing of the difficult French public. "For this debut, I made an huge research on fabrics. Then I got some codes of Rochas like the A line, without nostalgic impulses, but trying to convey that aesthetic in contemporary without being retro. Then I played with the overlaps, almost trying to remove the clothes from the bodies to give more importance to the look". A spectacular collection that renews and, at the same time, respects the tradition of the brand.
