5 things to expect from London Fashion Week Women's FW25

Today marks the start of the London Fashion Week Women’s FW25. This edition will be shorter and more condensed than in previous years, reflecting the absence of major UK fashion names while highlighting a growing number of independent designers who, season after season, are becoming the most recognized names on the schedule. The only major international brand present is perhaps Burberry. Nevertheless, London maintains its role as a hub for experimental talent—even though several online commentators, notably Imran Amed of BoF, have pointed out that the declining visibility of London Fashion Week is a worrying trend, with Milan and Paris solidifying their status and overshadowing both the British capital and New York. Amidst a luxury market crisis and ongoing discussions about reshaping geographically peripheral fashion weeks for greater impact, there remain interesting appointments and high expectations.

Here are the 5 things to expect from the London Fashion Week Women’s FW25.

1. Public initiatives

From February 22 to 24, the British Fashion Council will open a three-day pop-up store on Regent Street to support the city’s emerging designers. Curated by retail expert Ida Petersson and creative consultant Lewis Bloyce, the store will feature archival pieces from brands such as 16Arlington, Ahluwalia, Bianca Saunders, Completedworks, Conner Ives, Helen Kirkum, Johanna Parv, and Saul Nash. Alongside shopping, the pop-up will offer panel discussions, workshops, and piercing sessions by Aurum London. The initiative is part of the City Wide Celebration program, designed to enhance fashion-themed experiences across London’s key shopping districts, including Regent Street, Oxford Street, Soho, and Covent Garden. Concurrently, Fashion Week attendees can access the “Not In” lounge at 180 The Strand, in collaboration with Highsnobiety, and participate in events hosted by Alo, Morocco Kingdom of Light, and Reference Point.

2. Harris Reed opens the week

Opening this season’s London Fashion Week is a show by Harris Reed. The young Anglo-American designer and creative director of Nina Ricci has made significant strides in recent years. This will be his ninth collection under his own name but the first to be presented live on the runway. The show caps a notable year for Reed, who dressed Demi Moore for the 2024 Met Gala, collaborated with Mattel on the first gender-fluid doll, launched Nina Ricci’s first fragrance in a decade, introduced a whisky line, and designed for Lily Allen in Emily in Paris. His opening show is both a culmination and a promising new beginning.

3. JW Anderson’s (temporary) absence

This year’s schedule lacks several beloved major names. While S.S. Daley was expected to skip the season but will present a collection tomorrow at 10 a.m., the most notable absence is JW Anderson. Rumors suggest that creative director Jonathan Anderson may soon be appointed as Dior’s new designer. Significantly, Anderson chose not to present collections for either his eponymous brand or Loewe—a telling absence that has fueled speculation of an impending announcement, potentially this spring. Other notable absentees include Nensi Dojaka, Chopova Lowena, Aaron Esh, and Knwls.

4. Burberry’s new show

Burberry has become a fashion enigma season after season. Firstly, a recent CEO change has recalibrated the brand’s trajectory, steering it away from troubled waters. Secondly, many speculate that Daniel Lee could soon leave for a new role, with Jil Sander frequently mentioned. Thirdly, the brand’s perception has improved thanks to the CEO’s renewed focus on heritage. There’s high anticipation for the upcoming collection: will it herald a return to the cult era of Burberry Prorsum?

5. Independent designers

As mentioned in the introduction, London’s independent designers may not match the global renown of their Paris and Milan counterparts, but their consistent presence and unity have created a community of professionals that represent the city and the excellence of independent fashion worldwide. Brands like Erdem, Simone Rocha, Richard Quinn, Roksanda, Denzilpatrick, Labrum, Marques’Almeida, Dilara Findikoglu, Chet Lo, and Di Petsa are no longer emerging names. They remain a vital and fresh part of the independent fashion scene, bringing innovation and vibrancy to a landscape increasingly dominated by large (and often predictable) global brands.