Are you ready for the grand return of the bootcut jeans?

When it comes to jeans and denim, for the past few years, we have been living in an almost undisputed era of baggy cuts, declined in all their variations: balloon, slouchy, low-waisted, high-waisted, and so on. Some brands have even risen to prominence thanks to their fit, just think of Our Legacy and Acne Studios. At the same time, however, it seems that the era of soft, loose-fitting pants has reached its peak after a period that began at the dawn of the pandemic. Already during the SS25 shows last September, there was a hint of a great nostalgic comeback, later confirmed by the current FW25 and the Super Bowl last Sunday: the bootcut is back. A key element of '70s fashion, the bootcut represents the perfect middle ground between skinny jeans—still widely disliked by most audiences—and ultra-wide jeans, which have become somewhat overdone. If we then add the pop influence of Bob Dylan's style, thanks to the release of the biopic A Complete Unknown, and the return (after last year was entirely dedicated to his ex-wife) of Serge Gainsbourg’s aesthetic, the picture is complete. It was Gainsbourg himself who inspired Hedi Slimane for Celine’s SS20 denim collection, worn by Lamar during his performance at the 59th Super Bowl Halftime Show.

Although not exclusively reserved for men's runways, the bootcut cut has found fertile ground in both fashion seasons of 2025. Last September, Prada, Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton, and Fendi had already reinterpreted them in a more relaxed way, with a silhouette closer to baggy jeans yet still strongly influenced by the ‘70s aesthetic: Prada paired them with a fitted, cropped sweater; Fendi, on the other hand, took inspiration from the Californian flared style of the era, with an ensemble made entirely of soft cotton that draped from the shoulders, revealing a “wife lover” tank top; Louis Vuitton’s looks, meanwhile, recalled high-waisted suits, often paired with double-breasted jackets or collared blazers. As for womenswear, last September’s MFW saw Versace and DSQUARED2 take on the bootcut silhouette in two completely different ways: Versace embraced the ‘90s aesthetic (itself a reinterpretation of previous decades), while DSQUARED2 brought a historically accurate Y2K look to the runway, featuring its iconic flared cut paired with a deconstructed bustier. Meanwhile, those who distanced themselves entirely from casual influences, instead focusing on the drama and rigidity of shapes, included Sean McGirr at Alexander McQueen, who, during SS25, made the bootcut a key feature of both men's and women's looks. This time, however, the cut took on a darker interpretation, emphasizing sharp angles—perhaps a precursor to the gothic aesthetic of the Nosferatu Winter.

However, it was the FW25 collection that truly cemented the return of the bootcut. Some brands opted for a casual, everyday approach—such as Louis Vuitton, Acne, Courrèges, and Berner Kühl, who leaned into flared denim—while others fused the shape with their brand’s strong tailoring tradition. Leading the way was Zegna, which, for its show inspired by the quest for the Golden Fleece, reinterpreted the “old” bootcut and classic Italian tailoring in a modern 2025 key. Following a similar path were Amiri and Aura Lee, who, to remain faithful to the disco era, deliberately emphasized the crease, making the trousers elegant yet still effortlessly relaxed thanks to soft fabrics. Meanwhile, Lemaire adapted the bootcut to its distinctive visual and stylistic codes, staying true to the brand’s innate minimalist sensuality.

As reported by Vogue Business, the latest data paints an intriguing picture in the world of men’s denim: while interest in bootcut and flared models has increased by 12% on major fashion platforms over the past three months, baggy jeans—despite a 27% year-on-year increase—are losing ground compared to the +150% boom seen the previous year. This slowdown suggests that while nostalgia for flared silhouettes is gaining traction, the market is reassessing the balance between tradition and innovation. The influence of icons like Kendrick Lamar is undeniable: after the Super Bowl, searches for “kendrick jeans” skyrocketed, while the #flaredjeans hashtag on TikTok saw a +203% surge compared to last year. Market forecasts from Heuritech indicate that flared pants will grow by 2% in Europe in Q3 2025, followed by a 7% decline for the rest of the year, suggesting that the flared cut, while refreshed and modernized, remains a niche choice. A trend that, while rediscovering and reinterpreting its ‘70s roots, adapts to new streetwear and workwear influences. Could this be the defining aesthetic of 2025?