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What we're craving after Paris Fashion Week Men's
The ultimate interpretation of pants and asymmetrical silhouettes, to name a few
January 29th, 2025
The French agenda reached new heights this season, packed with dynamic runway shows, captivating presentations, and a series of highly anticipated debuts. Paris Fashion Week Men's delivered creations that redefined the season’s essence—ranging from daring asymmetrical silhouettes to classic tailoring infused with bold, unexpected twists. What’s next for the wardrobe's desirability? A perspective inspired by an essential part of Paris’s exploration.
Asymmetrical silhouettes
Sacai's FW25 collection draws inspiration from the timeless classic Where The Wild Things Are. This collection embodies Sacai's signature hybridization, blending silhouettes and concepts rooted in the essence of wilderness. A standout feature of the collection is the use of exaggerated utility pockets, which reshape familiar forms by cementing functional and aesthetic boundaries. As Sacai continues to push the envelope with its layered designs, pairs of jackets that are hybridized and folded together—an oversized jacket enveloped by a standard-sized one, creating a striking visual interplay. Raw, unfinished collars and asymmetrical silhouettes further enhance the rugged, untamed spirit of the collection, while retaining the brand’s signature play on volumes. Instead of equal lengths, what the wardrobe craves is skirts and blouses dominated by asymmetries, perfectly paired with jackets.
Not just a coat
Further developing the idea of artistic influences altering masculine archetypes, Dries Van Noten resonates with the elegance of another era and other illusions to create the coat of the season. Embellished with historical puffed sleeves and crinoline construction in traditional hunting wool fabric, or with historical puffed sleeves and crinoline construction in burgundy satin duchesse, the pieces designed by the Dries Van Noten Studio and directed by Julian Klausner are involved in the season’s endless stream of cinematic quality. During Lemaire FW25, coats also get a taste of balance between oversized silhouettes and impeccably executed lines. Yves Salomon redefines elegance by blending natural materials with an outdoors-ready spirit, showcasing a seamless fusion of elegance and functionality. Meanwhile, 032C brings a bold twist to classic tailoring. Under the creative direction of Maria Koch, their coats and jackets challenge traditional forms with accentuated body shapes and deconstructed silhouettes. This sartorial exaggeration suggests breaking down forms and silhouettes as a counterexample, as sartorial exaggeration.
Smooth velvet designs with storytelling
There is a velvet mood lingering in fashion after Paris Men's Fashion Week, spurred by Mike Amiri in Amiri, LGN Louis Gabriel Nouchi, Willy Chavarria in his eponymous label and Peter Copping’s debut for Lanvin. Nevertheless, velvet isn’t just a fabric this season—it embodies a narrative of playfulness, secrecy, and elevated sophistication. Lanvin stands out with his refined velvet column gowns, offering a polished, elevated option for a ceremony or gala dinner. Meanwhile, other designers embrace velvet with a sense of resistance and storytelling. Willy Chavarria collection Tarantula brought a neo-Baroque drama to the runway. His pieces play with contrasts—light and darkness, tough and tender—through bold textures and tonalities. Italian velvet suits, tailored for both men and women, become a medium to explore resistance and European finesse, delivering a message of strength wrapped in beauty. At LGN, Louis Gabriel Nouchi draws inspiration from George Orwell’s 1984, weaving a tale of secret relationships defying societal constraints. Velvet coats and tailored suits emerge as both armor and refuge, embodying vulnerability and sensuality in equal measure. This season, velvet transcends its traditional role, becoming a canvas for designers to craft stories of rebellion, vulnerability, and elegance.
Very very long pants
In the FW25 season, pants take center stage with a narrative deeply rooted in tailoring and a fresh perspective. Ami effortlessly blends casual ease with sophistication, creating a seamless fusion that embodies the quintessential Parisian charm. At the core of this collection are generous, floor-skimming trousers that radiate relaxed, nonchalant elegance. Tailored looks are redefined, moving away from the rigid formalities of traditional suits to embrace a refreshing approach. These trousers are paired with crisp poplin shirts, striking a perfect harmony between structure and fluidity. Meanwhile, Acne Studios brings a contrast edge to the season. Their pants stand out with innovative treatments, whereas classic menswear fabrics including flannel, pinstripe viscose, leather, and corduroy maintain a tailored aesthetic.
Every piece from Dior Homme FW25’s collection
Christian Dior’s rich archives can always be relied on to deliver a noteworthy fashion moment, and this season was no exception. Drawing inspiration from monsieur Dior’s Ligne H for the FW54-55, Kim Jones masterfully infused his modern vision, creating an unforgettable showcase at Paris Men's Fashion Week. The seamless harmony of classic sophistication with contemporary creativity redefines timeless elegance, leaving a lasting impression by establishing ties with women’s Haute Couture. In this way, Dior’s new collection is abuzz with expertly crafted, exquisitely structured tailoring that exudes pure minimalism and longevity. From cropped leather bomber jackets and black satin blouses with dramatic balloon sleeves to baby cashmere knits, belted kimonos and couture opera coats, these standout pieces define a wardrobe's state of mind. As Jones shared with WWD: «I don’t buy as much stuff, and when I do, I think about how long I’m going to wear it for.» Dior’s FW25 collection reflects this philosophy, offering timeless investment pieces meant to last a lifetime.