The 5 best shows of Paris Fashion Week Men’s

Talking about Paris can sometimes feel almost redundant, as the French Fashion Week, in all its iterations, remains untouchable. After a rather underwhelming calendar for Milanese menswear, Parisian menswear managed to deliver an intense week: the spotlight was not only on the big names of the calendar but also on overseas debuts, which offered shows that left a mark. And so, with the start of Couture Week, we can officially say that the menswear calendar for FW25 has come to a close, presenting the 5 best shows of Paris Fashion Week Men's.

Dior Homme

Perhaps leaving the creative direction of Fendi helped awaken the masculine spirit of Kim Jones. Drawing inspiration from Christian Dior’s Ligne H, Jones presented a display of fluid sensuality at the École Militaire. With a distinct ode to classicism, the FW25 collection skillfully combined the Maison’s DNA with a modern sensibility, intertwining a sophisticated reinterpretation of fashion history with a contemporary aesthetic. Jones explored themes of metamorphosis and transformation, running throughout the collection, starting with the inspiration from Dior’s Ligne H for the Autumn-Winter 1954-55 season and translating those elements into menswear. The fluidity of the silhouettes and the play with volumes, alternating fitted lines with softer, more flared forms, reflect a dialogue between past and present. Feminine couture influences emerge prominently in outerwear such as capes and opera coats, revisiting menswear with a theatrical touch, while maintaining the Maison’s rigorous and monumental essence. One might even dare to say it feels like a return to Dior’s golden years.

Willy Chavarria

In stark contrast to typical Parisian shows, Willy Chavarria arrived from New York to challenge the rigid norms of French Fashion Week. While Dior embraced classicism, the Mexican designer brought a romantic mix of inclusivity, intersectionality, and diversity, principles at risk of being overshadowed in the coming years. With an exceptional cast and significant references in makeup and hairstyling, Chavarria’s message was clear: fashion is and must remain a political tool. The FW25 collection, titled Tarantula, stands out for its meticulous tailoring and its ability to tell a deep cultural story through every element. Oversized pieces with defined shoulders and sharp collars bring a retro touch, while luxurious fabrics like multicolored velvets, silks, and a bold red bouclé evoke a dramatic and sophisticated aesthetic reminiscent of Karl Lagerfeld’s ’90s Chanel. Accessories also play a crucial role in the narrative. Long rosaries carried by hand and keys used as charms become symbols of belonging and identity, reinforcing the dialogue between spirituality and everyday life. Through Tarantula, Willy Chavarria has shown that fashion is not just about aesthetics but also a means to question cultural boundaries, tell stories of resilience, and reaffirm the value of inclusivity.

Lemaire

Defying all expectations, quiet luxury remains a dominant presence on the Parisian runways, proving that elegance never truly goes out of style. Among the brands that best embody this philosophy, Lemaire continues to stand out for its coherence and rigor. With a no-frills and excess-free approach, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran presented an FW25 collection that stays true to their aesthetic, built on a refined balance between form and function. The silhouettes, the focal point of the collection, stand out for their carefully calibrated use of luxurious materials, particularly leather. The collection explores the concept of quiet luxury through rich textures and soft draping, creating an aesthetic that combines practicality with modernity. Co-ed silhouettes seamlessly merge functionality and sophistication: leather jackets paired with flowing skirts and relaxed trousers compose a wardrobe designed for everyday wear but with a distinct sartorial edge. Lemaire eschews unnecessary concessions, but every detail speaks of care and precision, as evidenced by the slim belts that complete the looks without overwhelming them. While bags often steal the spotlight in collections, for FW25, the footwear managed to take center stage, particularly the ruched leather boots and elegant heels.

Sacai

The wild outdoors, tundra, and cold: with Sacai’s FW25, one feels transported to a harsh, unspoiled landscape. However, Chitose Abe draws her inspiration from a far more intimate and nostalgic source: the whimsical world of Where the Wild Things Are. Central to the collection is the prominent use of fur, an element woven into garments, accessories, and footwear, making a bold statement through the new collaboration with UGG. Rather than rehashing familiar territory, the collection expands on previous partnerships like the one with Carhartt WIP, evolving classic pieces like chore jackets into more elaborate iterations: leather jackets, puffers with corduroy collars, and hues of dark brown and pine green. The silhouettes retain the brand’s signature play on volumes, with layering that alternates oversized pieces with more fitted ones. Knitwear, padded materials, and new leather techniques mix with washed canvas to create an aesthetic that nods to workwear while staying firmly rooted in Sacai’s universe. Fur acts as the collection’s leitmotif: trims, coats, and shoes – including knee-high shearling boots and slip-ons created with UGG – dominate the runway, while details like wild cow prints from J.M. Weston add a deliberately eccentric touch. The color palette oscillates between military greens, browns, and beiges, punctuated by striking scarlet accents. There is nothing superfluous, yet nothing entirely unexpected: Abe continues to refine the balance between utility and sophistication.

EGONLAB.

There’s no doubt: the runways continue to signal that next winter will have a “Nosferatu Winter” aesthetic. Leading this trend is EGONLAB., which with its FW25 collection titled S4LEM, reimagines the witch trials through a contemporary lens. While seemingly inspired by events of the 1600s, the narrative reflects on present-day issues, drawing parallels between the witches of that era and today’s marginalized communities. The first look, a long double-breasted black coat with frayed collars and cuffs, immediately encapsulates the collection’s essence: a minimal gothic aesthetic that defines the entire line. The collection addresses themes of struggle and resilience by innovatively manipulating traditional materials and silhouettes to create unexpected textures and shapes. Among its standout features is the color palette, which mixes dusty tones with unexpected flashes of pink and dark orange. Witchy elements appear throughout the details: “bat flowers”, reinterpreted as voluminous leather fringes, adorn workwear coats and avant-garde garments.