Louis Vuitton breaks the unwritten rule of the cruise fashion shows

While Dior heads to Rome on May 27 and Chanel travels to Lake Como around the same time after its stop in China a few months ago for the Métiers d’Art collection, Louis Vuitton, for once, has decided to break the unwritten rule of Cruise collections by not venturing to new horizons to unveil its creations to the world. On May 22, 2025, the Maison will remain grounded, with its feet on French soil but its head in the clouds, as it will present its show in France. After last year’s Parc Güell in Barcelona, the Isola Bella on Lake Maggiore in Italy the year before, and past shows in Japan, Brazil, and the sunny landscapes of Palm Springs, the French brand will stay local as it did in 2022. While the exact location remains undisclosed, one thing is certain: regardless of the region, Nicolas Ghesquière, artistic director of Vuitton’s women's collections since 2013, will choose the perfect backdrop to showcase his travel pieces.

Cruise shows – also known as resort collections – first emerged in the 1920s as intermediate lines designed for wealthy clients seeking sunshine during the colder winter months rather than enduring the gloom. Today, these collections are a vital part of the Fashion Week calendar, offering a delightful yet serious interval between the major SS and FW collections, attracting a vast and diverse audience spread across the globe. While once deemed unnecessary and criticized by designers such as Azzedine Alaïa, Cruise collections now hold undeniable advantages. Firstly, due to their scheduling outside traditional Fashion Weeks, they gain greater exposure on social media. While the September and February Fashion Weeks are pivotal media events for the fashion industry, their packed schedule of shows and information can sometimes overwhelm the audience. In contrast, the spacing between Cruise shows allows clients more time to absorb what they’ve witnessed. And, of course, greater visibility leads to a larger client base and, ultimately, higher profitability, making these collections more lucrative than many others.

But that’s not all: the location of the show also plays a key role in its success and the sales it generates. While Chanel has long-standing ties to China dating back to its founder Gabrielle Chanel, everyone understood the strategic decision to choose Lake Hangzhou as the destination for its Métiers d’Art show last November, presented in the middle of a challenging period for the luxury sector, largely due to China’s changing consumption habits. A few years ago, brands could freely choose to showcase their Resort collections in various countries based on personal preference. Today, location and its advantages must be meticulously studied. This explains the rise of repeat shows: presenting an already unveiled collection in another country to reach a new clientele, as Chanel recently did in Hong Kong.

So, is it a wise move for Louis Vuitton to stay on its beloved French soil, potentially forgoing a rich narrative of travel that would undoubtedly intrigue clients worldwide? Perhaps it is. After all, what audiences seek in Cruise shows is a strong storytelling and a powerful connection between the brand and the show’s location. And what connection could be stronger than that of Louis Vuitton and France? If Dior’s choice of Rome makes perfect sense given the bond between Maria Grazia Chiuri and the Eternal City where she was born, Louis Vuitton’s decision to present in France seems equally fitting. Speaking of Dior, according to a university study analyzing Cruise shows from 2012 to 2022, the house has stood out as one of the few to go beyond mere escapist imagery. By creating genuine synergies with the chosen destinations, these shows deliver more than visibility to their locales. They generate significant short-term benefits, particularly in terms of tourism and local business development. For instance, Arles experienced a notable boost after Gucci’s Cruise 2019 show, as did Greece following Dior’s Cruise 2022 presentation in Athens, just after the pandemic. Louis Vuitton’s Cruise collection in France might as well showcase the hidden gems of the French countryside to the world. After all, why take on the challenges of organizing such a major event at the other end of the globe when there are paradisiacal spots waiting to be discovered close to home?