The return of the men's perm

If you remember well, a few years ago, it was Peaky Blinders that changed men's taste in hairstyles. Waves of young men, fascinated by the macho-elegant style of England's Thomas Shelby, flocked to barbers asking for the exact haircut of the criminal, an undercut characterized by a strong contrast between shaved sides and longer hair. In that case, the hair needed to be straight, like that of the Shelbys. However, trends fade, replaced by others inspired by cinema, streaming platforms, football fields - like the most outrageous looks of Balotelli and Beckham. And so, while voluminous curls created with rollers are back in vogue in women's salons, an '80s haircut thought to be extinct is now trending in barbershops: the perm. 

Promoted by new-generation stars such as Aaron Taylor Johnson, Paul Mescal, Jeremy Allen White, Austin Butler, Josh O'Connor, and Timothée Chalamet, the perm has managed to convince young people of its modernity in a relatively short time - despite being quite a vintage look. Fortunately, the process and the final result have undergone several innovations compared to the '70s and '80s. Unlike those years, the result tends to be less damaged (after all, it is a chemical process that alters the hair) and more polished. The return of the perm among men follows the "soft boy" or "babygirl" trend, referencing a TikTok meme that celebrates gentle masculinity, marked by an aesthetic that balances structure and softness. The modern men's perm encompasses everything: the virility of a full mane and the sweetness of soft, angelic curls. But how is a perm done, and how can you care for your hair to avoid the dreaded "straw effect"?

What is a perm, and how is it done?

@pkstrakaluse Surfer’s Paradise- More like surfer’s hair goals-Catching waves with these perm curls.‍ . . . #waveylocks #surfstyle #beachycurls #perm #menperm #permhair #surfinspired #surfready #permanenthair #salonlife #vegasstylists #saltandcurls #permspecialist #boypermhair Makeba - Jain

A perm is a chemical treatment that can produce soft waves or tight curls, depending on the process. There are various types, from the classic perm for uniform curls to the volumizing one that doesn’t create prominent curls, and the natural look of beach waves (think Big Wednesday). By using chemicals, the perm alters keratin bonds - which determine the hair’s structure and shape - reshaping the hair with the help of rollers, whose size varies based on the desired curl. After washing, a neutralizing solution is applied to set the new look, left to process, and rinsed before drying and final styling. 

For anyone looking to explore the limits of their hair, try out some curls, and add volume to their mane, it’s recommended to consult with your barber - preferably one who knows your hair type and the best way to do a perm. The result varies depending on the thickness of the hair, as well as any prior bleaching or chemical treatments, which could negatively react to the process. It's also essential to maintain the perm after leaving the salon: the process dries out the hair significantly, so using masks and highly hydrating conditioners between washes is beneficial. Otherwise, you risk ending up like Justin Timberlake during the NSYNC years.