The Métiers d'Art 24/25 collection reinvents Chanel's timeless heritage

Today, Chanel set sail and flew to China, unveiling its Métiers d’Art 24/25 collection in Hangzhou. Presented at nightfall in the almost mystical ambiance of the city bordering West Lake, the collection pays homage to the artistic legacy of Gabrielle Chanel and the heritage of the Rue Cambon Maison, blended with an unexpected but fitting Asian influence. From long coats with voluminous shoulders crafted in luxurious tweed, satin, velvet, or embroidered with small flowers, to duffle coats, short jackets, or oversized jackets adorned with frogging closures and lined with silk satin, quality and craftsmanship once again took center stage. Indeed, the long coats and jackets were the highlight of the show: straight jackets cinched at the waist, side-buttoned jackets, and tuxedo jackets lined with white satin were paired with pleated skirts adding volume, wrap skirts, culottes, or cropped trousers. An array of outerwear gave the impression that the wearer was ready to dash to the airport and fly to new horizons. The theme of the strong, independent, and traveling woman extended beyond jackets and clothing: bags (travel bags and vanity cases) added an adventurous touch to the collection, all executed with the elegance characteristic of Chanel.

Floral or two-toned, t-shirts, bustiers, cardigans, skirts, dresses, tweed-knit or cotton bermuda shorts and trousers are worn in an interesting layering game, often adorned with pockets resembling envelopes. Floral patterns, including Chanel’s iconic camellia, embroidered by the century-old Maison Lesage, appear on dresses and suits, sometimes covering them entirely, echoing Coromandel screens, the lacquered Chinese works of art Gabrielle Chanel loved. Shades of jade green, pink, and sky blue evoke the gleam of lacquer, while faded blue jeans mimic the ripples on the lake’s surface, and darker tones of black and brown refer to the wood of the panels. This Chinese escapade comes at a timely moment, as the Middle Kingdom's attention and clientele are increasingly sought by luxury brands. This is Chanel's second stop in China, following the presentation of its Cruise 24/25 collection in Hong Kong last November. While the question of Chanel’s next creative director remains unanswered, the Maison seems far from standing still, as its Métiers d’Art 24/25 show demonstrates a strong determination to move forward, vanity case adorned with the double C logo in hand.