Fashion tells a story, Julien Da Costa captures it

We are fortunate to live in an era where a simple click can unlock the tightly secured doors of fashion. Whether exploring its past through historical content explaining how Coco Chanel introduced jersey fabric into clothing, its present with analyses of the latest Courrèges show, or even its future, fashion is now narrated by many, accessible to all, and understood by most. Yet, when it all started for Julien Da Costa, the phone was just for calling, TikTok had not yet become a platform for thoughtful and instructive content, and fashion was shared through one primary channel: television. A single show on Canal+ was enough to capture the heart of the Frenchman who today documents iconic moments of contemporary fashion, presents it in its most authentic form, and narrates it like no one else. And today, Julien is here to tell us the story himself.

« My starting point was the television of my generation: a crucial medium during my childhood, which was my first window into this industry, he explains. One day, I accidentally came across a fashion program on Canal+ and heard a voice that was not only funny but also insightful. That voice was Loïc Prigent. » As Julien grew up, the journalist’s reports and documentaries became a constant in his life, and he quickly thought it would be great to work with him someday. « Life made our paths cross, and while people often say it's best not to meet your idols, I’m lucky to say today that, actually, you should meet your idols, and it's pretty amazing when it goes well, » he continues. Thus, Loïc, even before becoming Julien’s mentor, was his reference in fashion, especially through his documentary on Marc Jacobs and his series "Le jour d'avant". « This helped me understand that fashion is not just about image; it also involves incredible craftsmanship and people working behind the scenes to achieve a single vision. From the start, even though I always had a passion for television and engaging narratives, I wanted to experience this industry through a camera, be it in video or photography, as the two are intimately connected. » says the photographer and film director, who recently embarked on a solo career.

And what a career. « I’ve had the chance to film Karl Lagerfeld at work several times. He was one of the most remarkable personalities I’ve met in my career and, above all, one of the icons who inspired everyone to take an interest in fashion, » the photographer and film director explains. When Julien first discovered fashion, Lagerfeld was one of the highly recognized and ever-present faces seen on television, who played along with the media and was instantly recognizable.  « It was incredible to witness a fashion genius at work, creating imagery. I also loved filming his Chanel shows, photo sessions—unforgettable moments that you capture only once in a lifetime. » But the Kaiser, of course, wasn’t the only one to create lasting memories for Julien: « At the last Jean-Paul Gaultier show at the Théâtre du Châtelet, I ended up on stage filming the designer, which wasn’t planned at all. I’ve also had the chance to film many emerging young designers, and watching them grow is one of the most fascinating aspects of my job. I’m fully aware that when filming them, you never know what these people might become tomorrow. » Probably one of the most intriguing aspects of fashion is its unpredictability and the unknown origins of success.  « I had the chance to film the first shows of Jacquemus and to see today that it has become a massive fashion house. When you're interested in fashion, it’s crucial to stay alert, to look at everyone’s work—even those whose style might not immediately appeal to you. »

As for the future, Julien has plenty of projects in mind. « There are so many photos I’d like to take. So many models I’d like to shoot. So many brands I’d like to work with. So much craftsmanship I’d like to showcase. Fashion is an endless source of inspiration. There are so many codes and narrative levers within all the houses that the subjects to film are limitless. » But for now, Julien is taking it one project at a time, starting with bringing attention to models and their voices: « In recent years, I’ve greatly enjoyed interviewing models because I find their careers quite unjust. In collective memory, we constantly reference the same supermodels from the 90s, so I wanted to amplify the voices of today’s models. They are just as beautiful, brilliant, and intelligent. It’s like there’s this memory heist by a select few from the 90s, overshadowing others equally deserving of the spotlight. » A new generation of models cool, inspiring, and far less diva-like. « Being among the first to interview them and seeing them later become superstars is very interesting to document. I remember the very first conversations I had with Loli Bahia, who is now a superstar, probably the most famous French model of the moment and perhaps the Kate Moss of her generation. »

Speaking of new generation and all the changes and innovations it brings, Julien is anything but worried: « I try to view technological advancements as a kind of tool that now allows creatives to develop interesting ideas. I see it more as a help than a threat. Today, these advancements enable creatives to envision completely wild videos; AI can fill in gaps or support a project. So why not? I’m eager to see what happens. » Julien’s stance is the same for the arrival of new personalities and storytelling methods in fashion. « I’m all for evolution and being surprised. I’m an eternal optimist, a fashion fanboy, and I think it’s great to be shaken up by new generations proposing different ideas, discovering new talents, and new ways of narrating stories in this field. » He concludes optimistically: « Everything has changed, everything changes, and that’s a good thing. »

Our conversation ended on a high note, our rose-tinted glasses of eternal optimism still firmly in place, as we discussed the sector's possibilities and what it offers today and will offer tomorrow to its enthusiasts: « Fashion is one of the largest job-creating industries in France, with incredible resources. Today, it gives life to absolutely mind-blowing artistic expressions, with shows featuring astonishing decor often created in collaboration with amazing artists who come to Paris specifically for the occasion. » Occasions that are now far from just showcasing clothes. « I wouldn’t say fashion is art, but it’s an industry with the means to enable fascinating artistic expressions, calling upon excellent photographers and artists for collaborations or set designs. In fact, fashion is collaboration. It’s collective work that creates a fantastic vision. Everything happens simultaneously. No other industry allows for such inspiring creations today. » Julien concludes with a smile: « Even now, I’m always surprised by the sheer number of people behind a show. I still find it hard to quantify how many people work on a superproduction like a Loewe or Chanel show. Fashion is an industry that opens many doors and provides countless opportunities to so many talents. » An industry that not only offers opportunities but also promises intriguing and sometimes unexpected discoveries: « I’ve met many incredible people who didn’t necessarily come from privileged backgrounds. The reputation of fashion as a closed-off and snobbish world, I understand it, but at the same time, I enjoy disproving it. » A contradiction delivered with a smile in his voice, perfectly concluding this conversation.