Who are the two French finalists for the Woolmark Prize?
Outstanding portraits and avant-garde creations on the programme
November 19th, 2024
The names of the 8 finalists competing for the Woolmark Prize have just been revealed, and among them, 2 are French. The Australian fashion competition, as its name suggests, centers around wool: each finalist will receive 60,000 Australian dollars to create a six-look merino wool capsule, either as part of their Fall 2025 collection or as a standalone project. The creations must highlight the versatility of merino wool, its innovative character, and its eco-friendly qualities. Throughout the development of their collections, the eight finalists will have access to industry mentors, including stylist Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, fashion editor Sara Sozzani Maino, Tilting the Lens founder Sinéad Burke, and Roopal Patel, fashion director at Saks. Before the grand finale arrives, let's take a moment to spotlight these 2 Francophone finalists: who they are, what they do, and what they'll be presenting on the big day.
The first is named Louis Gabriel Nouchi, a name you likely encountered this summer, as he was entrusted with designing the 700 costumes for the artists participating in the opening ceremony of the Paris 2024 Paralympic Games. The career of this 34-year-old French designer, who graduated in 2014 with a degree in fashion design from La Cambre in Brussels, took a major turn in 2023 when he won the Grand Prix de l'Andam. Known for his finesse in reinventing menswear by blending tailoring and sportswear heritage, the young designer has been putting his personal touch on genderless fashion since 2017, drawing influence from his Belgian mentors Martin Margiela and Raf Simons, where he honed his skills early on. Regarding his plans for the finale, he stated he would like to show that wool can be sexy.
His competitor, Ester Manas, is actually a duo of competitors: the French-Belgian couple Ester Manas and Balthazar Delepierre. The couple, who met at La Cambre in 2012, now work together to create fashion with a universal silhouette made for all body types. Their "strong>One size fits all" concept, which earned them the Galeries Lafayette Prize at the Hyères Festival in 2018 and a place in the finals for the LVMH and Andam prizes, was inspired by a seemingly simple and routine act: flipping through an Ikea catalog. This project of extendable garments like a table that can accommodate a few last-minute friends is, however, a homage to women and their bodies, regardless of their shape and size. The brand is characterized by bold pieces designed for all body types, aiming not to hide the body but to highlight it. True to their ideals and commitment to breaking norms, Ester Manas stated that their capsule for the finale will aim to challenge preconceived notions about wool while staying true to their brand’s philosophy of body positivity and adaptable design. "We want to explore wool as a versatile material that transcends seasons, climates, and body shapes. Our goal is to combine the natural technical properties of wool - breathability, elasticity, and durability - with modern knitting and weaving techniques to create garments that are as inclusive as they are sustainable," the couple explained to Women's Wear Daily.
The winner will receive a cash prize of 300,000 Australian dollars, approximately 185,000 euros (almost double compared to previous years). Two industry awards will also be presented at next year's final event. The Karl Lagerfeld Award for Innovation will be given to a brand or individual in the fashion industry who has pushed the boundaries of innovation in merino wool. The Supply Chain Award, meanwhile, will honor a supply chain member who has demonstrated leadership and innovation in sustainable practices. While other competitors such as Belgian Meryll Rogge, Dutch designer Duran Lantink, Raul Lopez of New York-based brand Luar, and Michael Stewart of London brand Standing Ground are formidable, perhaps our French participants will follow in the footsteps of Yves Saint Laurent and bring the Woolmark Prize home.