A brief history of creative directors with the shortest mandates ever

The early departure of Peter Do from the brand Helmut Lang announced yesterday shook the fashion world, given the brevity of his time as creative director (1.5 years). Beyond speculating on who will be the next to helm the brand, a pressing question arises: why do creative directors leave and succeed one another at such rapid speed, and why are their terms sometimes so short-lived? While the answer varies by individual and context, let's take a look back at the designers who left abruptly without much warning.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin's 6 Months at Ann Demeulemeester

Although the Belgian designer now heads his own eponymous label, alongside projects such as working as a guest designer for Jean-Paul Gaultier, he was appointed artistic director of the Belgian brand Ann Demeulemeester in December 2022. However, just one season later, he bid farewell in May 2023. Fortunately, the FW23 collection left a lasting impression on fashion enthusiasts with its iconic "feather" top (not a typo—there was just one feather).

Walter Chiapponi's 4 Months at Blumarine

In November 2023, the Italian designer made his debut at Blumarine after leaving Todd’s, only to exit four months later in March 2024 to pursue a new career direction focused on humanitarian projects. He, too, had just one season to make his mark before David Koma assumed the role.

Peter Hawkins’ 10 Months at Tom Ford

Recently, Haider Ackermann was appointed creative director at Tom Ford. Before him, Peter Hawkins, despite his short tenure, represented continuity with the American house's heritage and DNA. Yet, his term received mixed reviews, and his departure signaled a new chapter for the brand.

Raf Simons’ 28 Months at Calvin Klein

This collaboration lasted longer than others cited here but ended on a sour note. Eight months shy of completing his term, the Belgian designer, now collaborating with fashion luminary Miuccia Prada, departed Calvin Klein due to mounting disagreements.

Today, the game of musical chairs for creative directors is more intense than ever, making it hard to keep track of their comings and goings. Hopefully, the future holds more stable and less frenetic terms for these talented individuals. After all, while each stint enriches the creative head and the brand, no designer joins a house expecting to leave disappointed just weeks later.