The cocoon coat season is now officially open

If the cocoon, a symbol of comfort, familiarity, as well as birth and renewal, was once almost automatically associated with animals and unappealing little creatures in particular, things have changed today. Far from the image of a growing larva, it seems the cocoon and all it represents is taking a glamorous turn, thanks to numerous designers it has inspired during the latest fashion week. The latest to confirm this trend are Rick Owens and Moncler with their collaborative collection, making us wonder why we should settle for a simple puffer jacket when chrysalis-like coats offering warmth, comfort, and avant-garde but cozy style exist.

Yet neither Rick Owens nor Moncler are the first to bring this natural phenomenon to the Fashion Week runway or into the studios of fashion photographers. In fact, its history dates back to the 19th century, when French fashion as we know it today was taking its first steps, with designer Paul Poiret as a great pioneer of French and international fashion. While Charles Frederick Worth is considered the founder of haute couture, Poiret is recognized for completely transforming it. As women’s bodies were supposed to be (according to the codes of the time) represented like an hourglass with the waist defined and curves highlighted, Paul Poiret, bored by the lack of creativity and a constant style, decided to create a different, innovative, even revolutionary fashion. His fascination with the Orient, its fabrics, garments, and flavors brought a bit of its colors back to France, and thus he created, along with his “harem” pants and turbans, the cocoon coat—a voluminous jacket seemingly ready to engulf anyone brave enough to hide in it.

Although Paul Poiret's brand did not survive the world war and the ensuing crises, the cocoon coat not only survived but became increasingly prominent over the centuries and collections. It was, in fact, the starting point of the Courrèges ss25 collection, presented in Paris last September. This collection was entirely centered around the concept of growth, discovery, culminating in the much-anticipated blossoming. A few weeks earlier, at New York Fashion Week, which opened the month of fashion, the Alaïa house showcased fluffy silhouettes in which one could happily bury their head for a bit of comfort, available in cream, pink, and blue, as well as an array of exuberantly sized puffer jackets. And while the Balenciaga show, also for the ss25 collection, opened with light lingerie-inspired silhouettes, large cocoon coats were not absent, whether cropped, long, black or khaki, with or without a hood. Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Vaillant, Bottega Veneta… the list of houses that have chosen to embrace the trend over the years and tackle winter in the most pleasant way possible is endless. And with temperatures dropping, we understand and, most importantly, thank them.