Why Alaïa is the must-have brand in 2024

51%. According to Lyst, this is the percentage increase in demand for Maison Alaïa pieces over the last three months. It was hardly a secret, especially following the success of its latest show held in New York in September 2024, that the house was on track to secure an exceptional place among the most desirable brands of 2024. The recently published ranking made it official. Behind Miu Miu, which took the top spot, and Loewe, Prada, and Saint Laurent, Alaïa claimed the 5th place, leaping forward by a notable 12 positions and thus earning the title of the most impressive brand comeback of the quarter. But beyond its latest stunning collection full of movement and lightness, what is driving this sudden passion among fashion enthusiasts for the French house?

To understand, we need to go back four years to the arrival of Pieter Mulier as the creative director of the house. A new creative director with a strong background, having worked alongside his fellow Belgian Raf Simons and having started at Calvin Klein and Jil Sander. For his first show, the FW21 presented in Paris, he wisely chose to pay tribute to the late Azzedine Alaïa, who passed away in November 2017, with ultra-feminine silhouettes that were at times fluid, at times perfectly body-hugging, respecting the aesthetic for which the Franco-Tunisian designer was globally renowned. However, Mulier has since managed to separate from purely Azzedine's DNA and infuse his own touch into Alaïa’s legacy, successfully highlighting the brand’s codes while adding his personal flair. This very personal touch and the innovations he has introduced are what now elevate the French house to an exceptional position in the fashion world.

His ballerina flats, released in May 2022, ranked first among the most popular and sought-after pieces this semester. Inspired by traditional Japanese shoes, these flats have been designed in every possible version by Mulier: metallic, suede, floral… only 2 styles truly stand out, the mesh model and the leather version adorned with small, round, silver strass. Before them, it was the heart bag that garnered significant success, appearing on the arms of the most influential celebrities. It is clear that the New York show at the Guggenheim Museum during the last Fashion Week also left its mark. The collection’s sculptural and swirling outfits, matching the grand setting of the Guggenheim and the front-row presence of Rihanna, propelled Maison Alaïa and its designer into conversations from Paris to New York and beyond any border.