Balenciaga and the subtleties of a dialogue

The Subtleties of a Dialogue, is the title of the exhibition open to the public at Kering's headquarters in Paris, inviting an exploration of the unbreakable bond between Demna, the current artistic director of Balenciaga, and the brand's visionary founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga. At first glance, Demna’s creations, made from materials such as recycled plastic bags, aluminum foil, or synthetic hair, may seem radically different from the iconic pieces of the Spanish couturier. However, this exhibition reveals unexpected and profound parallels that make a lot of sense. As highlighted by Cédric Charbit, Balenciaga's CEO, in his statement: “The house’s founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga, revolutionized the world of fashion and haute couture, altering our perception of beauty and standards.” Something Demna has consistently demonstrated in his creative and commercial process: just look at the Balenciaga haute couture wedding dress FW24-25 for proof. This unprecedented juxtaposition of Demna’s avant-garde work with Balenciaga’s archives proposes a conceptual continuity transcending time.

Presented on Saturday, September 21, and Sunday, September 22, as part of the European Heritage Days, this is the first time that Demna’s contemporary creations will be exhibited alongside the house's historical archives. Through an elegant scenography, striking similarities between the two artists, such as architecturally complex silhouettes, exaggerated volumes, graphically lined garments, and a radical approach to materials, are highlighted. Charbit also notes that “Cristóbal was a pioneer, a leader, and in my view, the first couturier with such a radical and holistic vision – a couturier who potentially invented for himself what we now call a creative director.” A transformative force that makes Balenciaga a key house of contemporary haute couture, which Demna perfectly embodies today, he adds.

The exhibition, structured around six themes – the Collar, the Sleeve, the Hourglass Waist, the Cocoon Back, the color Black, and a section titled Dialogues – offers a true immersion into Balenciaga's visual universe through 59 silhouettes. Minimalist showcases allow viewers to examine the intricate details, while archival and contemporary pieces echo each other. A hoodie from the SS22 collection, for example, is displayed alongside a houndstooth coat from winter 1962, illustrating how Demna translates the house's historical codes into a resolutely modern aesthetic. A circular structure with side slits offers fragmented glimpses of monochrome black pieces in Spanish lace, velvet, and neoprene, reminiscent of the elegant austerity so dear to Cristóbal. Finally, as Charbit expresses: “The exhibition is an invitation to observe and understand the aesthetics and codes of Balenciaga and the global impact the house has had and continues to have on fashion.” Between past, present, and future, The Subtleties of a Dialogue brilliantly reveals the timeless power of Balenciaga's legacy.