Iceberg celebrates 50 years at Milan Fashion Week

On the occasion of its 50th anniversary, Iceberg opened Milan Fashion Week yesterday with an SS25 collection that looks to the future while keeping strong ties to its iconic past. Creative director James Long presented a show yesterday that tells the story of the brand's fifty years as an explosion of energy, color, and innovation, in line with the identity that has always defined the brand. During the show, Long thanked the maison's founders, Giuliana Marchini Gerani and Silvano Gerani, for their pioneering vision and paid tribute to the renowned designer Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, who laid the foundation for Iceberg in 1974 with his innovative approach to sportswear. " Celebrating these first 50 years means honoring the past while continuing to push forward," said Long, emphasizing the connection between vibrant colors and clean lines that convey a sense of freshness and good humor – after all, Iceberg has always been a brand that embraces the exuberance of youth and an active lifestyle. The heart of the collection was the reversible overcoats in raw-edged poplin, combining classic camel on one side with a sort of burnt orange and Iceberg's classic blue on the other, paired with wrap-around miniskirts for women and tailored shorts for men. A combo that immediately suggests a search for style and practicality, revealing the brand's sportswear roots.

Other highlights of the show included safari jackets and suede dresses in acid tones, floor-length with high slits and deep oval necklines held by necklaces. The oval neckline also returned in the ribbed knit dresses, this time with crossed straps on the back, while technical mesh polos and mohair sweaters brought a certain punk mischievousness to the collection's looks. Other notable elements of the collection were the oversized suede shirts, which can be worn as dresses or paired with striped linen trousers. For men, Long introduced wide-striped sweaters paired with technical trench coats featuring contrast panels, translated into the women's collection as mini trenches to be worn as dresses and pencil skirts that echo these details. A major novelty of this season is the debut of Iceberg eyewear, designed by Long and produced in collaboration with AVM 1959. These glasses are inspired by the mixed metals typical of 20th-century interior design and feature Iceberg’s signature “I” on the temples or integrated into the design. To close the collection, with accessories and shoes, there were classic kitten heels along with oversized, multifunctional bags that reflect the acid colors of the leather dresses, creating an interesting contrast with the more subdued tones seen throughout the collection.

To crown the celebrations for the brand’s fiftieth anniversary, Iceberg also announced the upcoming release, scheduled for October, of the celebratory volume Iceberg 1974-2024 Rewind-Fast Forward, published by La Nave di Teseo. This exclusive book, conceived as a scrapbook, retraces the maison's history from its beginnings to the present day, focusing on the key moments and designers who have shaped the brand’s identity, including Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and James Long. The volume, curated by Angelo Flaccavento and designed by Luca Stoppini, offers a broad overview of Castelbajac's work, who introduced the innovative use of knitwear and modern emblems inspired by cartoon characters. With images, advertising campaigns, and behind-the-scenes anecdotes, the book reflects Iceberg’s evolution over the decades, charting a journey that has marked the history of contemporary fashion. Regarding the project, James Long stated: «I love that Iceberg has always looked towards the future. This book is not just a tribute to our past, but a celebration of the continuous evolution and innovation that will guide us into the future».