Let's talk about inclusion with Sinéad O'Dwyer
For the Visionary Award, let's take a look back at the SS25 collection by the young London designer
August 9th, 2024
«When you try on a garment and it doesn’t fit or you don’t feel comfortable, it’s not your fault, but the garment’s fault for not being designed for you and never being intended for you»: this is the motto of Sinéad O'Dwyer, a young designer who has just made her debut at the Copenhagen Fashion Week. To celebrate her entry into the fashion world, Zalando pulled out all the stops, awarding the young designer the Visionary Award and organizing an event in her honor. Rediscovery of the SS25 collection, discussions on inclusion in fashion, and notable guests: this was the menu for the evening. A look back at this second Visionary Award ceremony, its guests, and what was discussed.
While the young London-based designer has just officially debuted at Copenhagen Fashion Week with her SS25 collection, she is far from being overlooked or considered as a newcomer with something to prove. In fact, the young womenswear designer was noticed not only for the meticulous work of her creations, which include signature bondage techniques, satin fabrics, ribbed knits, and crystal embellishments, but also for her strong personality and desire to use her art for utilitarian purposes and to convey a message of inclusion. These values were the main topic of discussion at the Visionary Award event, where the young designer spoke, sharing her inspiration and commitment to plus-size fashion, as well as the motivations behind her creative process. Alongside her, notable guests also actively participated in the conversation, such as the jury members, including Giuliano Calza, Creative Director of GCDS, and Edward Buchanan, Creative Director of SANSOVINO6/Head of Fashion in Milan for Perfect Magazine. They took the opportunity not only to list the reasons that led them to choose Sinéad as the winner for this year’s edition, but also to discuss the future of fashion and the alignment of the award’s values with the direction the industry is taking.
Although the topic is fascinating, the theme of the evening was, however, inclusion, also discussed by Emma Matell, Casting Director for the show, and artist and model Jade O’Belle. They not only addressed the topic of lack of inclusion in casting, but also proposed solutions to address it, emphasizing the need for brands to integrate inclusivity from the very beginning of the creative process and inviting castings to select models days, if not weeks, before the show, rather than just a few days earlier. «Only when exclusivity is no longer the buzzword that brands strive to embody, and inclusivity becomes the narrative to celebrate, will we perhaps see real change», they concluded. Last but not least: Hacinta Naidoo, Head of Diversity and Inclusion at Zalando, concluded the event by speaking about the retailer's commitment to diversity and inclusivity in all areas of the company, and the fashion industry's evolution towards a more inclusive future, citing the inclusive footwear collection created in collaboration between Zalando and several designer brands, including Giuliano Calza of GCDS.
With the September Fashion Week slowly approaching and the return of models, all slender and sculpted as if carved from stone, this kind of reminder, though somewhat «hopecore», is nonetheless essential. While Maisons and creative directors like Olivier Rousteing at Balmain or Jean-Paul Gaultier have fought and continue to fight for more inclusivity in fashion and luxury, the road is still long and full of obstacles. This conversation among experts on inclusion was therefore a good reminder not to forget that the battle is still long, but it remains a beautiful message of hope, proving that a significant margin of progress has already been made. It remains to be seen what the future of the fashion industry holds in terms of openness and development, but we are already looking forward to Sinéad O'Dwyer’s next collection, which, we are sure, will not disappoint us.