All the times sport has shone on the fashion catwalk
While sporting activities were once practised naked, sportswear has come a long way since then
July 30th, 2024
The Olympic Games, the ultimate celebration of sporting excellence, have always been a source of inspiration for fashion designers. From Antiquity, where sporting activities were practiced naked, to the 18th and 19th centuries, where elegance sometimes took precedence over functionality, the sportswear has evolved to reflect the trends and needs of each era. From the first bathing suits to the football supporters' jerseys, from the leotards of figure skaters to the iconic tracksuits of athletes in the 80s, sports and fashion have woven a rich and varied shared history. The subject is so rich that two cultural institutions in the capital have taken it up since this autumn. At the Palais Galliera, the exhibition « La Mode en mouvement » (fashion in motion) tracks down the history of clothing and its evolution to accompany sporting practice. This chronological journey links Princess Cécile Murat's equestrian wardrobe to the Adidas Superstar sneakers sung by Run DMC in 1986. At the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, the exhibition « Mode et sport, d’un podium à l’autre » (fashion and sports, from one catwalk to another) explores the links that unite those two universes, bringing together iconic pieces such as Jean-Claude Killy's ski suits, Muhammad Ali's boxing shorts, and Suzanne Lenglen's tennis dresses. While Paris has been in the thick of it since last weekend, now hosting 45 sporting disciplines, from breakdancing to wrestling, it's time to look back at the moments when sport shone on the fashion catwalks.
Fencing – Dior SS17
For her SS17 collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri brought an aura of aristocratic elegance to Dior, inspired by fencing. The structured jackets and high-waisted trousers evoke the outfits of fencers with modern sophistication. Key pieces included gray wool jackets and fitted trousers, reminiscent of the sport's protective clothing, while being embellished with leather details and elegant embroidery. The collection also played on crisp, contrasting colors like black and white and incorporated mesh elements reminiscent of fencers' metal protections.
Swimming – Nina Ricci SS22
Nina Ricci's SS22 collection, under the direction of Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter, was an ode to swimming. Inspired by the fluidity and lightness of this aquatic sport, the collection featured swimwear transformed into fashion pieces, such as form-fitting dresses and flowing jumpsuits that evoke graceful movements in the water. Shiny fabrics like satin and lycra, as well as patterns reminiscent of water ripples and reflections, enhanced the aquatic aspect. The pastel color palette, combined with metallic details, highlighted a fresh and modern aesthetic, capturing the spirit of sunny days.
Equestrian – Marc Jacobs FW14
Marc Jacobs delved into the world of equestrian sports for his FW14 collection, showcasing a contemporary vision of this aristocratic sport. Key pieces included tweed jackets, leather trousers, and high leather boots, all enhanced by elegant details such as leather belts and wide-brimmed hats. Jacobs also incorporated subtle equestrian motifs and deep colors like burgundy and forest green, adding a touch of luxury and tradition. The collection thus reinterpreted equestrian chic with a modern and bold sensibility.
Football – Louis Vuitton SS24
For his SS24 collection, Louis Vuitton, under the direction of Pharrell Williams, drew part of its inspiration from football. The collection included iconic pieces such as jerseys reimagined with leather details and loose shorts adorned with graphic patterns inspired by football uniforms. Accessories, such as sports bags transformed into fashion pieces, were embellished with details reminiscent of footballs and equipment. This playful and elegant approach redefined sport as a symbol of contemporary luxury, with vibrant colors and bold silhouettes celebrating football culture with a sophisticated touch.
Boxing – Jean Paul Gaultier AW10
His show, sponsored by Everlast, took place around a boxing ring, where women in corsets kickboxed while male models walked in outfits inspired by fight clubs. Gaultier masterfully blended fashion and boxing, presenting layered pieces including fluid mesh t-shirts, belted ring robes, leather jackets and trousers with protective padding, as well as zip-up hoodies and drawstring jersey pants. Boxing gloves transformed into accessories and championship belts integrated into the outfits added a provocative and iconic touch, transforming each model into a true style gladiator.
Skiing – Chanel FW19
Chanel's FW19 collection, under the direction of Karl Lagerfeld, sublimated the world of skiing with undeniable sophistication. The collection featured elegant ski suits, quilted jackets, and snow pants, enriched with sumptuous details such as furs, sequins, and metal accessories. Tones of white and silver, combined with geometric patterns, evoked snowy landscapes with a sense of luxury and refinement. Ski goggles and beanies adorned with Chanel logos completed the look, making this collection a brilliant tribute to both sport and haute couture.