Tom Ford says goodbye to another creative director

Peter Hawkings, who debuted as creative director for Tom Ford last September, has announced his departure from the brand. His exit marks a significant change for the brand, as Hawkings was the main figure of continuity with the past. Both Guillaume Jesel, president and CEO of Tom Ford and Luxury Business Development, and Lelio Gavazza, CEO of Tom Ford Fashion, expressed their gratitude to the designer (it is unclear who made the decision, whether the designer or the administration) and speak of an undefined future. Hawkings began his career with Ford in 1998 as a menswear design assistant at Gucci, later becoming senior men’s designer. In 2006, Hawkings followed Ford in launching his brand, overseeing the design and production of menswear, eventually expanding into accessories such as eyewear, bags, shoes, and jewelry. His rise led him to become senior vice president of Tom Ford menswear. Since taking the helm of the brand on his own, Hawkings’ collections, aligned with the brand's aesthetic, have received mixed reviews but have demonstrated his deep understanding of Ford's vision.

Hawkings’ departure seems to represent the end or the beginning of a transitional phase after which the brand’s identity will be redefined. At the time of the acquisition by the Zegna Group, president and CEO Gildo Zegna stated the goal of elevating Tom Ford among the top 10 luxury fashion brands globally (the beauty and fragrance business is separate) through the appointment of Lelio Gavazza, an LVMH veteran, as the brand’s CEO. It was also mentioned that a new creative director will be appointed in the near future, thus excluding the option, cited by some, that the brand could continue on autopilot with collections collectively designed by the team. Certainly, funds for the brand's renewal are not lacking: the Ermenegildo Zegna group, which also includes the Zegna and Thom Browne brands, reported a significant improvement in financial performance last year. Net profit more than doubled to 135.7 million euros, compared to 65.3 million euros in 2022, with revenues up 27.6%. The Tom Ford Fashion segment generated revenues of 235.5 million euros, with negligible operating losses mostly related to the purchase price allocation.