John Galliano may leave Margiela for Dior

The chatter among the most prediction-obsessed fashion insiders began when both John Galliano and Kim Jones deleted all their posts from Instagram. Then, on Friday afternoon, news broke that Dior's shoe designer, Thibo Denis, a cult figure in Parisian circles, had bid farewell to the brand after six years, with rumors suggesting he is heading to Louis Vuitton. The tops of the trees don't shake unless the wind blows: something seems to be about to happen. Then, in recent days, a more credible gossip emerged, not the usual rumor circulating among PR and journalists, but an actual article signed by Miss Tweed, alias Astrid Wendlandt, who understands quite a bit about insider information: John Galliano, it seems, might not renew his five-year contract with Maison Margiela next October to return to the position from which he was originally ousted, namely Dior. A comeback so extraordinary that, indeed, it sounds capable of bringing a sense of novelty to LVMH's second-largest brand and diverting public attention from the unpleasant issues related to the Italian sweatshop scandal that led the brand to publicly defend itself after accusations from Codacons.

According to Miss Tweed, the weaver of this plot is one of Galliano's most powerful allies, Anna Wintour, who quickly convinced Bernard Arnault and his daughter Delphine, CEO of Dior and a crucial player in the selection of designers and creative directors, and also paved the way for Galliano by putting his designs at the center of the last Met Gala. Despite the rumors, LVMH has refused to confirm the possible move. The news, however, highlights the talent chase occurring at the highest levels of fashion management, with major groups and big brands competing for the best designers. Galliano's potential return to Dior could, as mentioned, raise significant media attention around the brand at a time of cooling sales and also inaugurate an era where, much like in the '90s, high-profile designers define high-profile brands – where professional appointments become as important as the casting of a movie franchise. If our predictions included the end of star designers, the reality known by the luxury industry, in an era where fashion becomes entertainment, might do exactly the opposite and double the focus on creative directors, to elevate their mystique and, with them, that of the brands. In this sense, Miss Tweed's prediction is that in the coming months, we will hear many and diverse news about the new roles of designers.

For example, Sarah Burton is expected to go to Givenchy while it was already known (currently to be confirmed) that Hedi Slimane could be replaced by Michael Rider at Celine. Meanwhile, the identity of Chanel's future creative director remains increasingly nebulous, as it currently seems that the Wertheimers, who are in charge, want to take their time and choose the right figure. Both the potential appointment of Galliano at Dior (we emphasize potential) and that of Burton at Givenchy would also allow both brands to strengthen their Haute Couture divisions, which at the moment represent a valuable asset in the increasingly challenging value proposition game of brands. Haute Couture services could also help retain the precious VICs, a loyal but above all willing to spend ever-higher amounts clientele that brands themselves now charge.