The 10 most iconic muses of fashion designers

Yesterday, Alessandro Michele posted a selfie showing him around Rome with one of his iconic muses, Jared Leto. Michele, who is preparing to re-emerge with a bang in the fashion scene next September, was also photographed last month dining with Harry Styles in Rome, another figure with whom he has maintained a fruitful creative relationship, even co-signing a pre-collection for Gucci. In a historic moment like this, where genuine muses of designers have been replaced by ambassadors, the creative exchange that occurred between designers and their muses was truly something that gifted us great cultural moments. The nature of this relationship is one of a creative exchange exemplified by the archetype of such relationships: Givenchy and Audrey Hepburn, who famously once said that Givenchy's clothes were "the only ones in which I am truly myself." Givenchy, in turn, considered Hepburn his ideal model, the personification of his creative ideas. This is a muse: an inspiring figure who embodies the designer's aesthetic and helps bring it to life.

Alessandro Michele & Harry Styles

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Alessandro Michele and Harry Styles first met around 2014, and their friendship quickly developed thanks to a shared vision of fashion and art. Michele, known for his eccentric and innovative aesthetic as Gucci's creative director, has often designed costumes and looks for Styles, helping to define his public image. Styles has become famous for his bold and gender-fluid style, often wearing tailored suits, silk shirts, and statement accessories designed by Michele. One of the most iconic looks created by Michele for Styles includes the black lace suit worn by Styles at the Met Gala 2019, which made headlines worldwide. Their collaboration culminated in the "Gucci HA HA HA" collection in 2022, a line that reflects their personal and creative bond, with Styles becoming the official face of the lookbook.

Alexander McQueen & Kate Moss

@alexcatwalk #katemoss Closing Alexander mcqueen #runway som original - kobain

Kate Moss and Alexander McQueen first met in the early '90s, introduced by mutual friends in the London fashion scene. Their relationship soon became a friendship that would profoundly influence their careers. Moss regularly walked for McQueen, becoming one of the "unofficial" faces of the brand. Their collaboration reached its peak with the iconic "hologram" of the model (actually a Victorian-era illusion known as Pepper's Ghost based on reflective mirrors) that appeared in McQueen's FW06 "Widows of Culloden" show. This hologram became one of the most memorable moments in fashion history, showcasing McQueen's skill in blending technology with theatricality and emotional depth. Another legendary moment was when Alexander McQueen wore a t-shirt with the message "We Love You Kate" in 2005 to close a show, in a gesture of support for Kate Moss after the supermodel was involved in a media scandal over photos depicting her using cocaine. This gesture by McQueen demonstrated his loyalty and support for Moss, beyond any controversy.

Yves Saint Laurent & Catherine Deneuve

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Yves Saint Laurent and Catherine Deneuve had a very close professional and personal relationship that lasted for decades. They first met in 1965, when Saint Laurent designed the wardrobe for the film Belle de Jour, directed by Luis Buñuel, in which the actress played the lead role. This collaboration marked the beginning of a long friendship and creative collaboration. Saint Laurent considered Deneuve his muse, dressing her for many of her most important public appearances, including film festivals and award ceremonies. She, in turn, became a fashion icon thanks to Saint Laurent's clothes. Their collaboration extended beyond cinema, with Deneuve frequently wearing his creations both in private and professional life. In 2002, when Saint Laurent retired from the runway, Deneuve was one of the honored guests at his final show. After the designer died in 2008, the French actress publicly expressed her affection and gratitude towards him, calling him a fashion genius and a dear friend. In 2019, Deneuve auctioned off a vast collection of YSL clothes she had accumulated over the years, donating the proceeds to charity. This auction once again highlighted the importance of their bond and the significance of Saint Laurent's clothes in Catherine Deneuve's life and career.

Gianni Versace & Naomi Campbell

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The relationship between Gianni Versace and Naomi Campbell is legendary. They met in the early '90s when Campbell was emerging as one of the most promising models of her generation. Versace saw in her not only a perfect model for his clothes but also a muse. From the beginning, Naomi Campbell became a regular presence in the Calabrian designer's shows. One of the most memorable appearances was when Campbell wore a white and gold wedding dress during Versace's SS92 haute couture show in Paris. This dress, complete with a long veil and golden flowers, became one of the most emblematic moments in fashion history and solidified her status as Versace's ultimate "couture bride." For the FW97 show, considered Gianni's creative epitaph, Naomi was again a bride but in a short metallic dress. After the designer's murder that year, Campbell often spoke publicly about her affection for him, emphasizing how important he was for her career and for fashion in general and how the trauma led her back to drug abuse. In 2017, to celebrate the 20th anniversary of Gianni Versace's death, Naomi Campbell walked in the tribute show organized by Donatella Versace, along with other supermodels from the '90s.

Phoebe Philo & Daria Werbowy

Daria Werbowy, Juergen Teller and Phoebe Philo pic.twitter.com/oLyX3scFFi

— mars (@antifashun) February 4, 2019

Few relationships between a designer and their muse have the privilege of being based on a real physical resemblance. Phoebe Philo and Daria Werbowy developed a close professional relationship during Philo's tenure as Creative Director at Céline, a period during which Werbowy became the central figure in campaigns and runway shows. Their collaboration reached its peak with the SS14 Céline campaign, photographed by Juergen Teller, where Werbowy resembled Philo so closely that some initially thought the designer had stepped in front of the camera. This period marked one of the most influential and acclaimed phases of the designer’s career, with Werbowy at the heart of her creative expression. When Philo announced the launch of her eponymous brand in 2021, fans of the designer immediately speculated about a possible return of Werbowy as the face of the new collection. The rumors were confirmed when Werbowy appeared in the launch campaign for Philo’s new brand in September 2023. After all, friends are forever.

Hedi Slimane & Pete Doherty

Pete Doherty and Hedi Slimane pic.twitter.com/pLkRlt9tKy

— (@swedishplayboy1) January 31, 2020

Hedi Slimane and Pete Doherty met in the early 2000s when Slimane documented the musician's life for his acclaimed 2005 photo book, "Birth of a Cult". This visual book chronicles eighteen months in Doherty's life and the chaotic and raw musical scene he was fueling. At the time, Slimane was the Creative Director of Dior Homme while Doherty, co-frontman of The Libertines, was becoming one of the world’s most influential rockstars. Their friendship quickly blossomed, with Doherty regularly attending Slimane's shows and wearing his collections. This relationship directly influenced Dior Homme's SS06 collection, which Slimane created inspired by Doherty and his rebellious and bohemian style. The collaboration didn’t stop at Dior. In 2021, Slimane designed the wedding dress for the singer while in 2023, Doherty was invited to the Celine FW23 show (bringing his own dog along), showing that their creative relationship continues to influence Slimane’s work even today.

Karl Lagerfeld & Baptiste Giabiconi

Karl Lagerfeld and Baptiste Giabiconi had a very close professional and personal relationship that began in 2008 when Giabiconi was discovered by the designer in Paris. Baptiste Giabiconi quickly became Lagerfeld’s muse and favorite model, frequently appearing on the runway for Chanel, a womenswear brand. Lagerfeld once described the model as “the male version of Gisele Bündchen: slim, lean but with an athletic body – perfect in clothes and even better without.” Their relationship was marked by a deep emotional bond, which Giabiconi described as similar to that of father and son. On several occasions, the German designer expressed the intention to adopt Giabiconi as his legal son, although this never happened officially. After Lagerfeld’s death in 2019, it was revealed that Giabiconi was one of the main heirs to his estate, which included a significant portion of his fortune. Throughout his career, Lagerfeld also photographed many of Giabiconi's campaigns and magazine features, including an iconic Pirelli calendar, solidifying his status as one of the most recognizable and influential male models in the fashion world.

Giorgio Armani & Sophia Loren

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Giorgio Armani and Sophia Loren share a long friendship that began many decades ago. Loren has been one of Armani's greatest supporters, regularly attending his fashion shows and special designer events. This friendship has been publicly celebrated on many occasions, such as when Loren attended Armani’s "One Night Only" event in Venice, where she was assigned as the godmother of the occasion. Recently, Sophia Loren has often expressed her affection for Armani, calling him “my Giorgio.” Even for the Italian designer's 90th birthday in 2024, the Neapolitan actress described the designer as a “timeless creative genius” and emphasized how their friendship has been a constant in her life - she said: “I love you so much, Sophia.”

Demna & Kanye West

@nssmagazine “The Mud Show” - Kanye West opened the Balenciaga SS23 Show. #ParisFashionWeek #fashion #pfw #fashionweek #paris #kanyewest #balenciaga #demnagvasalia #demna #ye #catwalk #runway Afterlife - BFRND

Kanye West and Demna Gvasalia established a significant relationship both personally and professionally, profoundly influencing their respective fields. Their collaboration began in 2015, when Kanye discovered Demna's talent and invited him to join the creative team for the first season of Yeezy. This collaboration marked the start of a strong friendship realized both through endorsements, such as when Kanye wore a Vetements hoodie at Dior's FW15 show, bringing it into the spotlight, and through various appearances Kanye made at the brand’s shows and stores, where he became famous for his shopping sprees. One of the most significant collaborations between the two occurred in 2021 when Demna was the creative director of the listening event for the American artist’s album "DONDA" - one of the first major public collaborations between the two in the musical field, combining their artistic visions to create a unique visual and auditory experience. Demna stated: “Kanye has always been an inspiration to me. His vision pushes boundaries and challenges norms in the best way possible.” In 2022, Kanye announced an innovative collaboration between his Yeezy brand, Gap, and Balenciaga, directed by Demna. This partnership, somewhat unfortunate to say the least, named "Yeezy Gap Engineered by Balenciaga", demonstrated the effort both aimed to make in redefining the boundaries of accessibility in fashion. In the same year, Kanye walked for Balenciaga at the SS23 show, an event later overshadowed by the last, controversial show of Yeezy that made the founder a sort of pariah in institutional fashion (at least publicly) without preventing him from continuing to purchase and wear Balenciaga. In Kanye's own words: “Demna understands how to take culture to the next level.”

Dolce&Gabbana & Monica Bellucci

Nothing speaks of the concept of Italianess quite like the long-standing relationship between Dolce&Gabbana and Monica. Beginning in the early '90s, this relationship saw Bellucci become one of the main muses of the Italian designer duo, participating in numerous advertising campaigns and fashion shows. Their first meeting took place in Milan, where the actress walked for Dolce & Gabbana, marking the start of a personal and professional relationship that has lasted over thirty years and made Bellucci's daughter, Deva Cassell, one of the new faces of the brand. But the truly legendary moment was when, in 1994, Bellucci starred in the first commercial for Dolce&Gabbana fragrances, directed by Giuseppe Tornatore – a spot that encapsulated the entire Sicilian aesthetic of the brand in thirty seconds. Equally iconic, but less legendary, was the appearance the femme fatale made in 1997 at Cannes in a floral dress from the brand that still turns heads today. Over the years, Bellucci has been the face of many Dolce & Gabbana campaigns. One of the most memorable was the campaign for the FW14 collection, where the actress posed alongside other models such as Andreea Diaconu and Bianca Balti. Another notable appearance was at the SS19 show, where Monica Bellucci opened the show walking alongside other fashion legends like Eva Herzigova and Carla Bruni. In addition to runway shows and advertising campaigns, Bellucci has also collaborated with Dolce & Gabbana for the brand's cosmetics line, with the “True Monica” collection of 2013 developed with Pat McGrath.