Chanel's new creative director to be unveiled soon?

A woman or a man? A creative director from another House or an anonymous one ? Someone already part of the studio ? Karl himself coming back from the grave ? For almost a month now, fashion enthusiasts worldwide have been intensely questioning the identity of the « newcomer » to whom Virginie Viard will pass the torch. If on June 6th, the creative director of Chanel suddenly announced her resignation, no clues as to who will take over the reins of the French House have been revealed. Rumors quickly spread, but nothing concrete has been clearly stated, leaving room for scenarios and various speculations. Although the names most mentioned in these bets, similar to those made at the local PMU, are Hedi Slimane, Pierpaolo Piccioli Sarah Burton or Jeremy Scott, nothing is set in stone. In this avalanche of questions, Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion at Chanel and a member of the house since 2013, confided to Figaro and provided the fashion world's gossip-thirsty public with some hints on the subject.

If the seat that has been vacated is one of the most coveted in the fashion world, it is not certain that the one who will have the honor of sitting in it will already be known to the general public. Indeed, although choosing to hire a creator already expert in the field would provide the double-C House with considerable security regarding the quality of work and savoir-faire, it could also have negative repercussions on the brand's DNA. The fashion president explains his concerns that the creator's « touch » might be too pronounced (as some accused Alessandro Michele of doing in his first collection for Valentino) and erase Chanel's characteristic traits. Indeed, Pavlovsky takes the time to recall the codes and essence of the brand during his interview with the French magazine, insisting that it is crucial for the Maison, which has celebrated its 114th birthday, to remain true to itself and its heritage. « We will never wipe the slate clean of what exists at Chanel » he explains. A statement that would give credibility to the rumor that Chanel might consider assigning the coveted role to a little hand from the studio ? Pavlovsky says he does not rule out any option, and that the choice of successor will not depend on their gender or rank, but on their knowledge of luxury and interest in the Maison.

The weight on the shoulders of Chanel is not light, as the chosen decision could be double-edged. The newly elected head of the creative direction could bring a fresh breeze to the brand, or they could drag it down, attracting the wrath of fashion critics and the general public, as was the case for Virginie Viard. Public expectations are increasing proportionally with time, also increasing the risk of general disappointment if the answer does not satisfy. Yet the question will likely continue to burn on the lips of the world for some time, as the Maison seems to prefer taking its time and not making a hasty decision, thus avoiding any potential casting error. While waiting to find the rare gem, Chanel does not plan to take a vacation and already has several shows abroad scheduled. The Maison will present its Métiers d’Art collection in Hangzhou, China, on December 3rd, and its Cruise collection in Hong Kong on November 5th. By then, let us hope that the search for the next star of rue Cambon will have advanced, and who knows, maybe the new face of the brand will already be there and conclude the show with a beautiful reverence.