The happy, jazzy 50s of Amiri's SS25 collection

The SS25 collection by Amiri, signed by founder and creative director Mike Amiri and showcased yesterday in Paris, took us back in time: to the 1950s, to the zenith of Hollywood's golden age, under the shadow of the palm trees of Beverly Hills, while notes of jazz fill the air. The collection combined a bold tailoring reminiscent of Marlon Brando's costumes in Guys and Dolls with an irreverent, contemporary freshness. One of the main themes of the show was indeed to translate the essence of Modern Jazz into clothing, both as a musical genre and as an attitude. The collection marked an evolution in Amiri's narrative, continuing the Hollywood theme of his production. This season's wardrobe, with crystal encrustations and brilliant embroidery, seemed straight out of a Technicolor musical, with a vintage sensibility but modern cuts. Drawing inspiration from Jazz and Big Band icons of the '50s, the pieces from Amiri's SS25 transition from stage to street, transforming the fundamentals of dressing into a new form of male couture. This fusion of styles speaks to the Hollywood characters imagined by Mike Amiri, where tailoring is both elongated and languid: Californian comfort infused with Hollywood glamour.

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The tailoring of the collection is characterized by a relaxed ease, materials and colors both fresh and opulent, occasionally interrupted by flashes of sequins. The jacket that, in various versions, dominated the collection is double-breasted with a generously proportioned peaked lapel, semi-lined to soften the silhouette while still maintaining its aplomb. The trousers feature a slight flare, a shape that oscillates between skate and tailoring that we have seen slowly becoming the new standard of men's tailoring, adding character and three-dimensionality to the look. The feeling is that Mike Amiri was imagining vintage finds for the modern era: shirts embroidered with floral crystals, light denims interwoven with a pattern of sun yellow are embellished with stars. The color palette includes faded pastels of Southern California, such as pink, soft teal, and faded neutrals, hinting at nostalgia while remaining fresh and contemporary. But also shirts and scarves are hand-embroidered with lines of crystals, bead crosses adorn some jackets, and other degradé beads traverse the tailoring, imitating the effect of cinematic lighting: the famous Hollywood Glow, which is not the famous make-up but a lighting technique that made actors in old films appear surrounded by a halo of diffuse light. Always referring to the splendor of movie stars are the day and evening loafers with gold details while the Drum bag with a gold shoulder strap reproduces the features of the instrument from which it takes its name.

A fundamental part of the show (and also for the brand in general) is music. For SS25, music itself was central during the show held at Jardin des Plantes. Not only because of the various music-themed pieces on the runway – the most notable of which was the "Jazz Club" t-shirt – but also because the runway, clad in the MA Quad monogram, featured a stage at its center from which producer, composer, and drummer Yussef Dayes performed live. Widely recognized as one of the most electrifying live performers of his generation, Dayes brought a unique energy to the runway, demonstrating practically how music was the common thread throughout the entire collection, evoking memories of modern jazz and Hollywood glamour. This performance made the show a masterful fusion of music, fashion, and cultural nostalgia, providing a testament to Mike Amiri's dandy aesthetic, where each piece tells a story and every detail is meticulously crafted to reflect the unique DNA of a brand that has become a contemporary phenomenon over time.