Gucci summer according to Sabato De Sarno
Exploring freedom and encounters in Gucci's SS25 show
June 18th, 2024
The SS25 Gucci show held yesterday at the Triennale di Milano was a celebration of encounters and freedom, intertwining influences from the city and the beach into a fabric of vibrant elegance. Under the guidance of Sabato De Sarno, the collection marked a decisive step forward for the maison, blending urban sophistication with the naturalness of coastal landscapes. The show opened with a series of tailored pieces with clean cuts, structured yet soft and light, their freshness emphasized by the ubiquitous ultra-short shorts throughout the collection. On the tailoring side, single-breasted jackets with high lines and pressed sleeves showcased Gucci's impeccable craftsmanship. Completing the picture were double-breasted models in lightweight poplin, offering a fresh, deconstructed alternative to the minimalist elegance De Sarno cultivates.
Utility and practicality were key themes throughout the collection. Zip jackets and leather coats with exaggerated openings and unique textures added a contemporary touch. Each piece seemed designed not just for style but also functionality, echoing the dynamic lifestyle of urban explorers and beach enthusiasts. Surf influences, appropriately sublimated and almost abstract, permeated much of the collection, evident in the intricate details of printed shirts. These shirts featured embroidered fringes with beads and applied flowers, adorned with prints of surfers, dolphins, hibiscus flowers, and banana leaves – yet their structure remained inspired by utilitywear. This fusion of utility and surf aesthetic created a vivid canvas speaking of adventure and relaxation. Embroidery also played a significant role, adding an artistic touch to the collection. Long-sleeve polos were handcrafted with sequin inlay, while sherbet-colored jackets gleamed with bead fringes moving like waves, paying homage to both craftsmanship and the designer's narrative.
Footwear and accessories continued the narrative of innovation and style. Pointed boots and Gucci Cub3d sneakers with the woven G motif continued Gucci's pursuit on the dual track of tradition and innovation. The bags, inspired by Gucci's archive luggage, featured detachable elements and soft padded leather textures, emphasizing contemporary functionality. The rest of the accessories played a central role in highlighting the continuity of the brand's codes: Belts with double hook closures echoed the legendary Horsebit, while segmented bracelets and necklaces resembling bamboo links added a touch of natural elegance. Sunglasses, with robust frames and vividly colored Gucci straps, completed the look providing a touch of character. Overall, the SS25 collection by Gucci, the second for men created under the creative direction of Sabato De Sarno, was a testament to the brand's evolution and vision. A design philosophy that celebrates the idea of meetings, whether between city and beach, precision and color, or tradition and innovation, capturing the essence of freedom and inclusivity in fashion.