5 shows you missed at MFW Men's SS25

Judging by the collections presented this week at Milan Fashion Week Men's SS25, it seems that designers next year will focus on bright colors, especially when paired with equally vibrant shades. There were fashion houses, like Zegna and Dolce&Gabbana, that also paid great attention to the quality of materials and craftsmanship, but it is evident that for each brand present at this Milan Fashion Week, an impactful palette is essential. Let's take a look at the shows that impressed us the most this MFW Men's SS25.

Dolce&Gabbana

Dolce&Gabbana's SS25 was a style exercise for the designers, another opportunity to showcase the excellence of Italian beauty. In a show rich in details, from embroidery to floral applications on shirts, from leather accessory craftsmanship to the raffia line, the looks borrowed colors and shapes from nature, soft and airy for the warm season. With a clear nod to the 1950s and the cinematography of that era, the designers divided the collection into several acts: like the raffia chapter, there were white suits with coral embroidery, thick and colorful striped tops, essential black & white, and a verdant chapter reminiscent of the same intensity of inland Italian palettes.

Zegna

In the Zegna Oasis, amid a copper expanse symbolizing linen, an SS25 collection in taupe gray, chocolate brown, and mustard yellow emerged. On soft tailored suits, color block floral motifs combined muted natural tones with bright blues, while geometric leather jackets fell smoothly, purely. The entire collection once again demonstrated the brand's tendency to choose monochromatic shades to let the quality of the materials speak for itself. In this sense, the range of blues played with this season was a perfect choice, from suede accessories to linen suits. With a grizzled cast crowned by the show's closing by star ambassador Mads Mikkelsen, Zegna brought a mature and poetic style oasis to Milan Fashion Week.

Gucci

For SS25, Gucci sought to find a new dimension between sea and city. Combining prints with surfers and dolphins with structured bowling shirts, pairing thin ballet flats with tailored suits and pointed boots - with the maison's Horsebit - with colorful shorts, the brand infused urban clothing with a carefree attitude and gave structure to summer silhouettes. There were also plenty of sequins, colorful and fringed, covering short-sleeved polos. The main star of the show at Gucci's Triennale was not the Rosso Ancora, though present on a large carpet at the entrance of the venue, but rather a palette of acidic greens and yellows full of personality.

Dsquared2

One word is not enough to describe Dsquared2's SS25; calling it "gritty" is an understatement. Exploring antithetical concepts such as strength and softness, twins Dean and Dan Caten drew inspiration from various subcultures to bring a collection full of innovative spirit to the runway. Bodies, central to this show, were wrapped in transparent chiffon and bondage, denim transformed into latex, and asymmetric tank tops. Thanks to a pastel palette, the vibrancy of the silhouettes was harmoniously balanced. Clear references to the wrestling world, western style, and queer culture were re-packaged into one big show celebrating freedom of expression.

Martine Rose

For her first show in Milan, Martine Rose did not hold back. In a setting evoking the gloriously scruffy aesthetic of a just-finished rave, the collection was presented to the notes of a London techno DJ set. «Disturbance, humour and sex,» the press release announced to describe the inspirations behind the new designs. With large fake noses taped to their faces, the models strutted confidently in the same sporty-oversize silhouette that has established the English designer in the fashion industry in recent years. Structured gray tailored jackets were paired with bright blue latex pants and python cowboy boots, 90s graphic ties dangled over leather gaiters. The collection was a bouquet of references, from western aesthetics to bondage, motorcycle culture to 80s athleisure, but it also found space to announce an exciting new collaboration, with a pair of double-tongue Nike TNs.