5 Best brands of SPFW Winter 2024

Approaching its thirtieth anniversary, the São Paulo Fashion Week (SPFW) is coming up. For its 57th winter edition, 27 brands showcased their talents, going beyond colorful prints, sporty t-shirts, and short dresses: an event that highlighted craftsmanship, the revival of traditional techniques, and the use of revolutionary materials in the textile industry. Taking place last week, São Paulo Fashion Week saw tailoring take center stage, reimagined in a deconstructed style with oversized touches, embodying a sexy and elegant soul. Streetwear also had its say, adopting a minimalist language with a focus on wearability. Here are the top five runway shows of this edition.

Marina Bitu

Designer Marina Bitu's show—an invitation to discuss Brazil's cultural roots—paid homage to Cariri, the metropolitan area of Brazil located in the state of Ceará, featuring banana fiber fringes, bioplastic sequins made from sunflower oil, glycerin, coffee grounds, and natural dyes from jucá, pomegranate peel, and crajiru. In addition to the excellent work of embroiderers, fashion students from SENAC-Crato created crocheted balaclavas that paired perfectly with the looks. The color palette, inspired by the sunset over the Araripe plateau, ranged from dusk to sunset hues, transforming Northeastern culture into wearable garments full of meaningful messages.

Igor Dadona

When thinking of the seductive tailoring of classic films, one cannot overlook Igor Dadona. The young designer has built a strong online community, especially on X. Those eagerly awaiting his new Hourglass collection were surprised by the debut of a feminine line alongside a traditional menswear collection. Luxurious fabrics like pure silk, silk straw, silk satin, Bianchini-Ferrier double fabric, and pure English wool composed shirts, jackets, skirts, and high-waisted pants worn by models. Swarovski crystals adorned the garments, continuing the jewelry company's partnership from the previous collection. With the use of subdued tones, Dadona delivered precise tailoring showcasing his mastery in production.

João Pimenta

One of the last shows to close São Paulo Fashion Week was the creation of designer and tailor João Pimenta, who narrated Brazilian fashion within the Martinelli building, one of the city's first skyscrapers. He translated the imposing silhouette of the building into his collection pieces; voluminous coats crafted with masterful precision were mixed with São Paulo's club culture. Bringing a "Matrix-esque" vibe to life, he skillfully merged tie-dye and checkered patterns made in cotton with Oakley models.

Reptilia

Reptilia, designed by Heloisa Strobel, debuted at the latest SPFW edition—an opportunity to celebrate the tenth anniversary of her brand. Strobel conveyed a modernist vision through functional pieces that enhance the wearer's body. The collection, with its architectural DNA, focused on creating timeless and versatile lines. Despite their commercial soul, the pieces were uniquely constructed—from one-shoulder dresses, skirts, tops, and shirts made in glossy fabric, and the designer's chosen shapes (regular and rounded), aimed to satisfy diverse tastes. Jewelry designer Carlos Penna, whose name appeared in most of the season's runways due to his craftsmanship, then added an elegant final touch.

Mauricio Duarte

Straight from the Amazon, designer Mauricio Duarte chose to incorporate indigenous roots into his refined works. Embracing collaboration, the 29-year-old designer often invites artisans and indigenous associations from Manaus and São Gabriel da Cachoeira to participate in the production process. Through fashion, he aims to preserve and continually showcase the traditional knowledge of native peoples. His collection, PIRACEMA (a Tupi-Guarani term indicating the phenomenon where fish swim against the current), narrated by presenting fluid and contemporary pieces immersed in a sensual and refined atmosphere. Representing the rivers of the world's largest forest in blue, gray, and black tones, the designs included crochet work resembling fishing nets—paired with fish-shaped bags. In partnership with Carlos Penna, accessories like necklaces and rings were crafted using pirarucu fish scales, açaí, and combed straw, showing how charm and elegance can harmonize with history and tradition, revealing the depth of the Amazon.