Ludovic de Saint Sernin takes on America

The resounding announcement by Ludovic de Saint Sernin to move his runway show for the FW25 Fashion Week from Paris to New York marks a turning point in his career, echoing renowned creators who have also challenged geographical conventions. Following in the footsteps of icons such as Coco Chanel, who launched her creations in New York in the 1930s, Ludovic de Saint Sernin appears to perpetuate the tradition. His journey, starting at Balmain after graduating from the École Duperré, included an internship at Saint Laurent, the establishment of his eponymous brand, and a brief stint at the helm of Ann Demeulemeester. Only six months after being appointed as the artistic director of the brand, the house abruptly announced the departure of the creator without providing further details. Despite this, his inaugural and sole collection for FW24 successfully breathed new life, infused with glamour, into the label that had been dormant since the departure of its founder in 2013. This announcement raised numerous questions about the future of the Belgian designer. Now, almost a year later, he embarks on the conquest of the Big Apple.

New York, often described as the city that never sleeps, has provided the backdrop for countless iconic moments in fashion. As he commented following the announcement, «It's a place that has always held a special place in my heart. It has always been a source of inspiration, due to its heritage as a key location in the history of contemporary queer culture and some of today's defining artistic movements, but also because of the incredible community that has built up around the brand in the city.» Beyond the symbolic significance the city holds in Ludovic de Saint Sernin's artistic universe, the choice of this location is rooted in the crucial importance of the North American market. This relevance has solidified over the years, punctuated by key moments and significant successes. In addition to a strong fanbase in the United States, this market proudly represents the most substantial share of the brand's revenue, totaling 32%. This is an additional motivation driving the designer's determination to strengthen this transatlantic relationship. This move proves to be the ideal epicenter to unveil new facets of his creativity, inspire an already devoted clientele, and shine alongside brands firmly rooted in the metropolis, yet relatively unknown to the European audience, such as Sandy Liang, Luar, Laquan Smith, Staud, and many others.

The expectations generated around the runway show create a palpable buzz, as the fashion industry prepares for a new Fashion Week in the City of Light. The decision to move the runway show comes at a crucial moment when the Paris Fashion Week calendar seems to stretch to saturation. Ten days of frenzy, where all brands compete to impress the fashion sphere with special guests, activations, and events of all kinds. It is undeniable that Paris is and will remain the birthplace of Fashion Week; however, this cradle tends to be crowded. If Ludovic de Saint Sernin judiciously chooses to step away from the motherland for a season, it is highly likely that he will return even stronger in June 2024.