5 Things to Know About Gucci's FW24 Menswear Collection

The first menswear collection of the new Gucci by Sabato De Sarno has just walked the runway in Milan, continuing the modern-classic language experimented by the new creative director in his debut show in September. The soundtrack and color palette of the collection firmly placed it in the same narrative universe as the first women's outing, with some of the most genderless pieces returning to the runway and a new emphasis on recognizable tailoring made even more fluid and linear, with subtly altered proportions at the shoulders and hems, and a kind of semi-hidden languor emerging in the long ribbons surrounding the models' necks, in some crystal-studded collars, and in the deep necklines of the sweaters that revealed, under the omnipresent statement coat, bare and vulnerable skin. In this sea of elegant and almost placid sobriety, we identified five key details that animated the collection and that we will remember for a long time.

Here they are.

The new monogram

The classic Gucci monogram appeared on some outfits and bags in a new form: reduced and reticulated, with a shadow effect that gives it depth. More like a fabric texture or an abstract geometric pattern than the classic GG monogram (which was still present), this new discreet monogram motif seems to represent the cohesive, precise, and measured language that De Sarno has brought to the brand. In the show, we saw the new monogram completely covering some looks in different colors, mainly in gray and Ancora Red, suggesting that we will see it applied to numerous items in the new men's collection when it arrives in stores. The era of new minimalism has truly begun.

Outerwear

Undisputed protagonists of this runway were the outerwear pieces. Highly sartorial, structured in the shoulders and lapels, opulent in the richness of materials, and presented in various forms and lengths. From the sleeveless double-breasted long coat version to the leather remake with a thinner and lighter coat underneath. A significant highlight was the coat padded with shiny caramel-colored sparkling leather and two other models, one short and one long, in a fabric with a texture halfway between velvet and shaved fur. Silk accessories are added to these rigid sartorial lines, reminiscent of the long heritage that Gucci possesses in working with this material.

Gloves are the new accessory

Present in almost every look, the gloves played a supporting role to the coats, adding a romantic and mysterious touch to the explored classic sartorial and formalwear codes in this collection. We saw two iterations: the classic ones, available in different colors and paired with the large Jackie bags, and in some cases, even covered with the new monogram; and the more intriguing short gloves, covering only up to the back of the hand, with a more edgy flavor, paired with abundant but proportionally shortened leather bombers.

Slim-fit trousers

A detail that stood out but would normally have gone unnoticed is the trousers, or rather, their fit. While some runway models maintained soft, airy, and draped proportions, the majority of looks featured slim-fit, not tight, but precisely shaped trousers. Another nod to the sense of balance and moderation in De Sarno's tailoring, suggesting the return of more precisely measured and subtly cropped trousers above the ankle.

The loafer turns into Creeper

Gucci is synonymous with its loafers – one of the brand's original designs that not only made history but are also celebrated in MoMa exhibitions as one of the absolute masterpieces of design. If the last women's runway enriched the classic loafer with a large platform, in this collection, we saw the masculine version of the Gucci loafer adopting the look of the classic Creepers, the style of shoes that became famous during World War II and featured a treaded or grooved sole (as well as quite thick) with a more formal upper. The iconic loafer follows suit, varied through a long series of textures, details, and different proportions.