5 things to expect from the upcoming Milan Fashion Week Men's FW24

Next Friday will officially kick off Milan Fashion Week Men’s FW24, a edition that, as usual, is shorter than the more substantial women's fashion week, but certainly not lacking in surprises. This year, Milan will host a fashion week (even if dedicated to men) that seems to be in transition, introducing new names while others have departed. Numerous Italian and international brands are currently without a creative director or undergoing changes, such as Tod's, which will present Matteo Tamburini's new vision. The menswear week, typically less intense and shorter than its female counterpart and co-ed collections, will also make room for numerous independent names from around the world, allowing insiders and the public to start the new year with a step in the right direction of novelty.

Over the four days of programming (the last day, as usual, is dedicated to digital shows), there will be novelties both on and off the runway, with presentations, events, and launches indicating the direction menswear will take in the coming months. Here are 5 things to expect from the upcoming Milan Fashion Week Men’s FW24.

1. Gucci's Menswear by Sabato De Sarno

We have already seen glimpses of this new collection during the LACMA Gala and the Golden Globes, as well as at the opening of the new Gucci boutique on Montenapoleone and in the recent Gucci Valigeria campaign. Everything suggests opulent minimalism, paying homage to tradition. However, as always, there will be some surprises to expect from Gucci, even though every detail about the collection is currently shrouded in the utmost secrecy. The show is highly anticipated not only because the audience is eager to see the expansion of Sabato De Sarno's vision but also because this collection could indicate the direction Gucci, and menswear as a whole, will take in 2024.

2. Stone Island's Runway Debut

After becoming a cult brand over several decades, Stone Island is ready to make its runway debut in Milan. From what is said, the event will not be the typical fashion show we all expect but something different, attempting to propose an alternative model—in line with a brand that has always made innovation its signature. The brand's arrival in the Milanese schedule, three years after its acquisition by Moncler, marks not only its further expansion but also (and we expect this) the elevation of a proposal that is already practically unmatched and could bring a new and exciting voice to the Milanese menswear scene.

3. Etro's Tailoring Atelier

For this season, Etro has chosen to set its co-ed runway show during the women's fashion week but will present its new store on Via Montenapoleone: the first made-to-order male tailoring service ever offered by the brand. The inauguration event, which will extend for much of the afternoon, will likely be the chicest cocktail of the entire weekend. Next Saturday, those glitterati tired of going from one show to another can retreat to the walls of the new boutique to find some comfort and observe creations signed by Marco De Vincenzo. Another noteworthy point is that the opening of this boutique in the heart of Montenapoleone represents the arrival of a new level of luxury in the city, combining Etro's textile excellence with a made-to-measure service that, until now, among the boutiques of the Quadrilatero, had been limited to the corners of the most prestigious stores.

4. Indie Brand Pronounce Comes to Town

After parading for several seasons in the London Fashion Week calendar, the Chinese brand Pronounce enters (presumably on an ongoing basis) the Milanese schedule. The brand has a dual base, Milan and Shanghai, and produces pieces that reinterprets Chinese tradition with great flair and originality but with a very contemporary cut. Keep an eye on knitwear, outerwear, and jeans—there could be some beautiful pieces on the runway. Among the many brands that have come from China to present in Milanese showrooms, Pronounce is perhaps the most promising for the coherence and maturity of its proposal. But only after the show can we rightly say a star is born.

5. Todd Snyder Presents His Collection for Woolrich

What a busy weekend it must be for Todd Snyder. Just a few days ago, he presented his FW24 collection in Florence as the international guest of Pitti Immagine, and then he presented his collaboration with Woolrich Black Label by Todd Snyder. Beyond the fact that Woolrich has recently strung together a series of very well-thought-out and interesting collaborations (the latest with Phipps), it would be desirable for this double passage of the designer in Florence and Milan to better introduce his name into the Italian fashion ecosystem. Will 2024 be the year Italy recognizes Snyder's talent? We don't know, but it seems so.