Is the next winter trend the caban?

The caban (or peacoat, depending on the cultural area from which it is viewed) is a garment with a unique history in fashion. It first appeared in the 17th and 18th centuries worn by Dutch sailors, later adopted by British naval petty officers, and eventually became a classic in menswear, immortalized in numerous classic films (two of the most significant being the 1956 Moby Dick and the 1975 Three Days of the Condor). The caban experienced a strong resurgence in fashion in the early 2000s. While Helmut Lang had already featured them in his collections in the late '90s, it was from 2005 onwards that they began to appear more frequently, reaching a peak in the FW10 season and then gradually declining, nearly disappearing by 2013. Burberry and Gucci each presented about one per season during those years, and Christopher Bailey, in particular, had a fondness for them. They were also seen in collections from Hermès, Jil Sander, John Galliano, and Bottega Veneta. Today, the caban seems to be making a timid comeback, appearing discreetly in Bottega Veneta's SS24 and more prominently in the following Resort collection. It has been seen on the more classic runways of Emporio Armani, Hermès, and Lemaire, as well as on the avant-garde runways of Hed Mayner, Yohji Yamamoto, and Martine Rose. It is also present in the collections of Valentino, Brioni, Dries Van Noten, Jil Sander, and notably plays a dominant role in the Miu Miu show, one of the most intensely followed of the season.

Bottega Veneta Resort 2024

Brioni FW23

Dries Van Noten FW23

Emporio Armani FW23

Fendi FW23

Givenchy FW23

Hed Mayner FW23

Hermès FW23

Now, we're not talking about one of those silhouettes that dominates an entire year – in the race of trends, the caban currently seems to be a dark horse that predictions do not favor, but it has the potential to indicate the next evolutionary step in the pop taste of the coming months. For anyone familiar with the wave-like structure of trends (introduction, rise, peak, decline, and obsolescence), the dominant trend for men's outerwear, the extremely long coat, has already reached its peak and is starting to spread into the mainstream – the first sign of decline. The flock of so-called "innovators" and "early adopters" immediately after them is perhaps already unconsciously seeking coolness in a new garment. This is where the caban could fit in: with noble enough origins to be part of the quiet luxury repertoire, versatile in cuts and materials to fit into the aesthetics of almost any brand, potentially very valuable and functional, sophisticated in form but fundamentally sporty. All the hallmarks of a best-selling outerwear piece are already there.

Our Legacy FW23

Saint Laurent Resort 2023

Valentino FW23

Wales Bonner FW23

Yohji Yamamoto FW23

Miu Miu FW23

Martine Rose FW23

Lemaire FW23

Jil Sander Resort 2024

Another crucial factor is nostalgia: now, there is no substantial and unequivocal evidence, but towards the end of the 2010s and until 2013, the caban was somewhat the symbol of that traditional yet smart attire that early hipsters loved. From 2008 onwards, there was a diffusion of a vaguely fin-de-siècle aesthetic, with clothing that evoked the atmospheres of Dickens or Wilde with steampunk touches. The caban was perfect for channeling that atmosphere, vintage but not too much, suitable for both the dandy and the chimney sweep. In the original series of Gossip Girl, for example, both Dan Humphrey and Nate Archibald wore them, with the latter's coming from Gucci's FW10. Ian Somerhalder also wore one in The Vampire Diaries, along with a large number of television and film characters. Here's a list: Johnny Depp in Blow, Robert Downey Jr. in Sherlock Holmes, Daniel Craig in Casino Royale and Skyfall (after all, James Bond is a British naval officer), Brad Pitt in Inglourious Basterds – the list could go on. Perhaps the return of collective imagination to the androgynous has opened the door for extremely long coats, with the caban being their more practical and masculine version? It's possible: the sense of proportions in those years favored less draping and more dry, precise fit. Their return today, therefore, may suggest an attempt by brands to blend quiet luxury and practicality more: not everyone, rightly so, feels ready to wrap themselves in a coat as long as a robe.