Sarah Burton left Alexander McQueen

In a surprising turn of events, Sarah Burton, the creative director of Alexander McQueen, has said goodbye to the brand. After an impressive 26-year tenure with the brand whose founder she had become the trusted right-hand woman, Burton has reportedly decided to step down from her role. Sarah Burton's journey with Alexander McQueen began when the current creative director was hired as an intern in 1996 during her studies, later returning to the brand after graduating from Central Saint Martins. Her journey continued when she was appointed Head of Womanswear Design in 2000, working closely with Lee McQueen, who took his own life in 2010 and was later replaced by Burton herself in the role of creative director. In 2011, she designed the famous wedding dress worn by Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, receiving numerous industry awards and also the Order of the British Empire (OBE) in 2012.

Under the leadership of Sarah Burton, Alexander McQueen has become a highly profitable brand.  According to estimates by Morgan Stanley analyst Édouard Aubin, the brand's sales in 2022 reached an impressive €830 million, a significant increase from €758 million in 2021. This is a remarkable leap from the €220 million in sales reported in 2014.  But despite the impressive brand growth, the first half of 2023 presented some challenges on the financial side. The 'Other Houses' division of Kering's quarterly report, which includes Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga, reported a 5 per cent year-on-year decline in sales to €1.9 billion. A decline attributed to 'wholesale rationalisation', which fell 27 per cent in the first half of the year and also encountered difficulties in the US market. Alexander's ready-to-wear, however, performed well in the second quarter.

What will happen now at McQueen?

According to Vogue Business, In order to continue its growth trajectory and potentially reach the billion euro mark, Alexander McQueen executives have adopted several strategies including global retail expansion, coupled with a focus on accessories, including popular items such as trainers and the Curve bag. But the real question concerns the next creative director. The most credible voice at the moment, according to the web, could be the celebrated Anglo-Turkish designer Dilara Findikoglu. By all accounts, Burton's work, excellent as it was, had not been a true follow-up to the unique legacy and vision of Lee McQueen who, during his lifetime, had astonished, offended and scandalised the entire fashion system with his harsh criticism, conceptual shows and personal excesses. But if at least Burton was appointed by McQueen himself, whoever succeeds her will have the very difficult task of confronting the monumental shadow of the founder even though McQueen's thirteen-year absence has clearly opened up the brand's identity to new stylistic directions.