The disruptive creativity of Polimoda's Graduation Show

Inclusive and different, visionary and disruptive, never homologous: Anthos, Polimoda's final exhibition, held on 15 June in Florence's imposing Manifattura Tabacchi, the rationalist building by architect Pier Luigi Nervi that today reflects the institute's avant-garde, embodies the cultural and design legacy of the school led by Massimiliano Giornetti. The 104th edition of Pitti Uomo saw 25 collections presented by 25 designers with over 100 looks presented on the catwalk, an authentic expression of the talent and identity of emerging designers from around the world. It was a baptism of fire for a new generation of creatives ready to breathe new life into the entire industry, as well as for the most talented students from the fourth and third years of the Fashion Design course and the Masters in Collection Design and Creative Direction, selected by the faculty.

An exceptional team has been involved in the realization of the Graduation Show 2023: led by Massimiliano Giornetti, who personally mentored the students in the development of their collections and provided them with unique opportunities for learning and professional development, the show was distinguished by the special mentorship of Caroline Issa, the renewed collaboration with renowned fashion stylist Serge Girardi and the valuable contribution of Diego Dolcini, whose expertise guided the young designers in the creation of shoes and accessories, while the sound design of the show was overseen by the famous French composer Frédéric Sanchez. Gothic and post-punk influences, extravagant accessories such as bags made from steel cigarette cases and hats made from candelabras, knitwear with oversized volumes, disruptive cut-outs and a certain irony - the looks presented told very different stories and were part of the cross-section of intercultural contamination that has always characterised Polimoda.

If the work of fashion brands has gradually become 'quieter' and more minimalist in the years since the pandemic, the creations of the Institute's young students are disruptive, creative and far removed from the anonymity that seems to pervade the industry. Some designers have drawn inspiration from art, as in the case of Haigann Fevier-President who, fascinated by the use of wool in Zanele Muholi and Mari Mater O'neil's colour studies, decided to syncretise her creations in a vibrant and flamboyant collection, amidst giant wool headpieces and performative silhouettes. Others drew inspiration from their own histories, such as Rachel Tayza, who revived the classic doctor's coat with latex gloves to evoke her own childhood in hospital. Each capsule tells a self-contained, powerful and impressive story that gives an insight into the creative potential of the respective designer.

«You need time to design a collection, you need time to make mistakes, to grow and mature. That's the real luxury in fashion today. The possibility to wait for the results of a precise and delicate work. To define the aesthetics of a brand that must be recognised without the pomp of a logo. To seal a style like the great creators of the past, far from the temptation to recycle the ideas of others. Therein lies for me the value of paying tribute to the talent of Polimoda students with Anthos.»

Massimiliano Giornetti