The general audience's favorite products are increasingly basic

Just take a look at Lyst Index's list of hottest products to get an idea of the complexity fashion is currently experiencing. In a quarter where, between phantasmagorical shows and viral red carpet appearances, the hottest brands are wowing catwalk- goers and millions of digital voyeurs, the simplicity and accessibility of the products in the top ten is more surprising than ever. The connecting line between these collections and the actual purchase data of what fashion fans want to wear right now is an increasingly complicated web, and the shopper swings wildly between quiet luxury and trend, between big brands and smaller brands. The common denominator? The absence of logos and a pronounced preference for simple, long-lasting garments.

It's no coincidence that Uniqlo's shoulder bag is the hottest item of the quarter, and with a retail price of less than $20, it's also the cheapest item ever included in Lyst's index. A top spot went to TikTok, where it generated more than 59 million views. At the other end of the price spectrum, Rick Owens' Kriester sunglasses for $625 have become a favourite among fashion buyers. They are being worn by the likes of the Clermont twins, Lotta Volkova and most recently Rosalia at her Coachella performance, highlighting a broader market trend. Designer eyewear is indeed fast becoming a strong new category for designers, with demand up 57 per cent in the last three months alone. There is certainly no shortage of on-trend pieces, from the adidas Gazelle, which has confirmed its presence for the second year running, to the Bottega Veneta Drop Earrings and the apotheosis of virality with the MSCHF Big Red Astro Boots, the Akira-inspired red rubber boots that have been flooding the feeds for months. But in general, a growing passion for simple but quality garments that are all the better for being in an affordable price segment is emerging: from the Skims Sculpt Bodysuit to the Diesel Denim Maxi Skirt, via the Weekday Loose Baggy Jeans and the Le Coeur Bag by Alaia, bucking the trend of last year's Index, which still tended towards logomania with the one-piece swimming costume by Fendace and the Gucci Original GG Slide Sandals.

It was probably inevitable that fashion would return to a quiet style after years of logos, but the key factor is economic anxiety. Although perhaps less apparent to consumers, as purchases tend to be more infrequent, the rise in prices on clothes and related items is marked. According to the findings of a study conducted by Retviews, 2022 saw an average increase of 20% compared with the previous year. It is natural for the wealthy to reduce opulence when times are tough, and for brands to double down on the top end of the market, where consumers continue to spend while more aspirational buyers retreat. This is what is happening with the Quiet Luxury trend, embodied by historic brands on the Made in Italy scene such as Ermenegildo Zegna, Brunello Cucinelli, and Loro Piana, synonymous with an emblem that needs no ostentation, a symbol of refinement but even before that of quality. The average consumer follows the market trend, albeit with humbler means.