What will Jeremy Scott do next?
Clues include a car and an exclusive interview
March 23rd, 2023
Jeremy Scott's farewell to Moschino, as well as a shock for fans of the brand, surprised many Aeffe representatives. Only a few weeks earlier, during Milan Fashion Week, Scott had explicitly stated he felt ready to stay at Moschino for another 10 years, having served as creative director of the fashion house since 2013. Apart from a brief statement of good omen for Scott, Aeffe president Massimo Ferretti has not yet set out the plans that will be put in place for Moschino. Scott's work for Moschino has produced almost 80% of Aeffe's revenues over the years, so it is clear that, if this was indeed an unexpected move, this change must have shaken many of the financial certainties that had been holding the company up for years.
But what does the future hold for Scott's career? After announcing his separation from Moschino, the designer boarded a plane to Seoul to launch a collaboration with the car company Hyundai Motor Co, and although the press release introduces Jeremy Scott as «the renowned creative director of Moschino,» the project only includes his name. An eye-catching upcycled couture line was unveiled at the Hyundai event, featuring looks stitched together with car parts, such as the dress with the windshield tie and the one made entirely of chains. For the occasion, Scott gave an exclusive interview with Vogue Business in which the designer seems more than ready to put the Jeremy Scott brand on the road, as despite production for it being halted in 2019, he said he has already created some garments: «Yes, I've designed another collection,» Scott said, «I'm trying to figure out what I want to do.»
Jeremy Scott's career choices all seem to be deliberately unique, as indeed is the DNA of his artistic vision; even before setting foot in the Moschino atelier, the designer used to experiment with everyday objects, with the concept of decadence and with what is now his hallmark: irony. For his first collection, in 1997 he used hospital gown scraps, for his second he took leftovers from the Paris flea market, and even when he managed to get the attention of the international press, marking the debut on the catwalk of a thirteen-year-old Devon Aoki and later dressing the artist Bjork during her Homogenic tour, he did not let himself be charmed by fame and the "desire to please," but rather felt even more motivated to go against the tide. Fighting the fashion of the moment, dry minimalism, in the 1990s Scott designed collections that echoed the explosive lines of the 1980s, winning the displeasure of Vogue. Such was Scott's provocation in fashion that he attracted the attention of Karl Lagerfeld, who said, as stated by W Magazine, that he considered Scott to be one of the only designers who could take his place at the helm of Chanel after him. Could some secret proposal lie behind his departure from the Moschino directorship? We just have to watch and wait for the next surprise.