All the new keywords of men's fashion for Fall Winter 2023-24

All the recent men's fashion shows have shed light on the developments and changes in men's fashion, now purged, cleaned up, simplified, and ready to welcome the new names that are finally joining the big ones in luxury. The market has new enthusiasms and dynamism, trends and key facts punctually analysed by Tag Walk, which, post fashion week, presents a full-bodied report ready to point out the trends and the up & down numbers of desirability. Getting to the heart of the matter, Tag Walk lists the top 10 men's trends for Fall Winter 23: Psychedelic, Grunge, Burgundy, Skirt, Biker, Brown, Military, Preppy, Oversizing tailoring, and Leisure wear.

Charles Jeffrey Loverboy FW23-24

Givenchy FW23-24

Gucci FW23-24

Etro FW23-24

Dries Van Noten FW23-24

Dior Men FW23-24

Comme des Garçons FW23-24

If the psychedelic look, imaginatively recounted by Etro, Dhruv Kapoor and Dries Van Noten, had an astonishing +328% on Fall/Winter 2022, 65% of the designers, including Dior Men, Comme des Garçons Homme Plus and Gucci proposed skirts, as did the suit-pants combination, seen on Charles Jeffery Loverboy and Givenchy, which peaked at 126%. As Bosse Myhr, director of women and menswear at Selfridges, tells Vogue Buiness: «one of the highlights of this season's shows was Matthew Williams' collection for Givenchy. The layered tailored looks are our favourite. In general, there was a sophisticated, grown-up trend throughout the Milan and Paris shows».

Burgundy, poised between calm and euphoric, was also hailed by The Impression, which dedicates an article to the burgundy hue, "whose palette ran through the men's season collections with shades of burgundy, brown, mauve and mahogany. Perfect for autumn while promising to improve with time, these colours have appeared on coats, knitwear and accessories bringing drama, romance, sophistication and charm to the wearer". A few examples? Marine Serre, Louis Vuitton, Rick Owens, Martine Rose and Botter, who have taken shades and hues to apply, head to toe, to suits, outerwear, bomber jackets, shirts and footwear.

Marine Serre FW23-24

Rick Owens FW23-24

Botter FW23-24

Louis Vuitton FW23-24

Martine Rose FW23-24

Logo mania is on the decline, which 'plummeted' by 52% compared to the previous winter. The return to quality that is made up of beautiful cuts and luxury materials is also confirmed by Lucy Maguire, senior trends editor of Vogue Busines, who explains the new course of menswear as follows. «After the casual lockdown fashion and formality that marked the post, this season marks another change in the menswear market. Demand for trainers and hype culture is slowing down and a new category of young apparel customers is emerging who want high-quality, logo-free designs. High-end men's luxury brands are expanding beyond tailoring to bring lifestyle pieces to the market and thus meet the demand for hyper-luxurious garments such as suits or knitwear». 

And while 43% of designers have taken the military look forward, with 35% of cargo pants, tailoring has skyrocketed to +95%, a trend that is soaring and also welcomed by retailers. As Richard Johnson, chief commercial officer of Mytheresa, points out to Vogue: «there was a consensus on the direction the menswear market is taking: more sober, sophisticated and more minimalist-oriented than the embellishments we saw in the pre-pandemic collections».

Prada FW23-24

Federico Cina FW23-24

Emporio Armani FW23-24

Ami FW23-24

Ermenegildo Zegna FW23-24

DSquared2 FW23-24

Not to be overlooked are the maxi-length coats, +90%, the cosy oversize shapes, +81%, and the evolution of the double-breasted coat, +60%. Alongside the decisive but sober mood, there is no shortage of childish looks with +14%, the preppy vibes, +156% and the pairing of trousers inside boots presented by 27% of brands. As if to say, elegant tradition is fine, but leave us some unconventional notes.