The first taste of Daniel Lee's new Burberry

Two weeks after his (highly anticipated) catwalk debut for Burberry, Daniel Lee gave the public a first taste of the brand's new creative course. In fact, the first campaign of the Lee era, shot by Tyrone Lebon, who already collaborated with Lee back in his Bottega Veneta days, was unveiled today on Instagram, introducing a new line-up of talent and celebrities who will be part of the brand's community: Skepta, Vanessa Redgrave, John Glacier, Liberty Ross, Lennon Gallagher, Shygirl, Jun Ji-hyun and Raheem Sterling. Notable, then, is the return of the Equestrian Knight logo so beloved by Christopher Bailey and featured in the brand's collaboration with Supreme last March with also a new logo font that erases Riccardo Tisci's rebranding to return toward the heritage that marked the brand's success.

At first glance, one would say that we must prepare for a return of the chav check and that indie sleaze world populated by the likes of the Gallagher brothers, Damon Albarn, Kate Moss, and Pete Doherty. It should be specified that there are no products designed by Lee yet in the campaign, but existing garments have been used - no less, the insistent presence of the check on shirts and even what appears to be a bikini, combined with practical garments such as black turtlenecks and the classic trench coat gives us an early indication of where Lee is going with his next collection. Burberry's stated (titanic) goal is to reach the five billion mark in annual sales, leveraging the luxury handbag category but also insisting on its heritage and with strong nods to the work of Christopher Bailey, a designer whose work is being watched with increasing nostalgia by the public after Tisci's long tenure.