Haider Ackermann is the new guest couture designer at Jean Paul Gaultier

WWD has announced the new star of the collaborative format that has helped Jean Paul Gaultier's haute couture regain its former glory. For the fourth edition of a partnership that has brought together some of the most influential designers on the contemporary scene to present their interpretation of the immense archive of the enfant terrible of French fashion, the choice was Haider Ackermann, the French-Colombian designer esteemed by Lagerfeld and Galliano, who also launched the collaboration with Fila that was shown in Manchester a few weeks ago. As JPG's latest guest couturier, Ackermann will present a unique collection during Paris Fashion Week in January that focuses on the legendary designer's most silent talent, artistry: «I wanted to explore this purity, which is magnificent - he enthused - sometimes you forget all these details, how perfect couture can be.»

After retiring from the catwalks in early 2020, Gaultier proposed inviting a guest designer each season to create an haute couture collection, drawing on his 50-year history. Ackermann has repeatedly described himself as 'No. 4', following the Jean Paul Gaultier couture collections of Chitose Abe of Sacai, Glenn Martens of Y/Project and Diesel, Olivier Rousteing, creative director of Balmain. In the interview with WWD, the two designers described their long-standing admiration for each other's work and their shared belief in original creativity and technical excellence. For his part, Gaultier recalled reading about a new Belgian designer named Haider in Le Figaro and being dazzled by his sophisticated colors and unexpected silhouettes. Ackermann said he had liked the project from the start, stressing that haute couture was "much more concentrated and focused" than ready-to-wear: «The exercise is more beautiful, you go into much more detail. Also because you take your time, which is a real luxury these days, to design a collection... I am thrilled and lucky to be here».