When even vintage becomes a brand

It's no secret that vintage and thrift have become two main pillars of the fashion system. This mechanism has led to a complete reassessment of the archive, where, along with an increased interest in the history of brands, the past and the present seem to have merged in some way into something new. The best example of this phenomenon is the so-called "vintage brands," independent brands that have emerged from vintage stores in the U.S. or draw heavily from that world for inspiration, in many cases from the world of workwear. «Our silhouettes and cut and sew are informed by utility and workwear. We would like the product to feel timeless and functional,» told Zach Kinninger, founder of what is perhaps the most shining, and most interesting, example of this trend: Basketcase.

«Basketcase was born in my dorm room in Orange County, CA. It took roughly two years of conceptualization and being terrible at graphic work for me to grow the confidence to launch,» Zach recounted, talking about the genesis of what as he told us- «I think Basketcase played a significant role in starting that “strand” » -was the first reality capable of encapsulating and distilling what is good from a vintage garment to create something new. A necessary preservation process at a time when the historical memory of past fashion, but especially its presence in thrift stores, seems threatened by the now unstoppable advance of fast fashion, which after invading the social feeds and closets of half the world is starting to peep into flea markets. «I keep trying to come up with some kind of witty or nuanced opinion on the potential evolution of the vintage market,» said Zach Kinninger, «but we will probably find Shein at the flea and that makes me sad.» This is also why the model adopted by Basketcase, as well as the other examples mentioned above, continues to espouse the idea of drops for releases of its items, in many cases collections limited to a few pieces. A method that not only facilitates production but also helps to preserve the uniqueness of the items, thus maintaining that "one-of-a-kind, hard-to-find piece" charm that characterizes vintage hunting in many cases.

But to maintain this idea of authenticity of the Saturday market, the young realities had to fight with an obstacle made more daunting by the pandemic: the direct contact with their audience that comes from physical events, something that seemed to have been lost for a long time. «Prioritizing real life has always been part of our identity as a brand because it represents our values,» Zach recounted. «I am so grateful for the opportunity to present a product online and for it to create enough resources to live my life and have a small team - but at an artistic level I am most compelled by creatives who are committed to artistry as an experience.» This may also be why even though it is undoubtedly a bubble, the holdouts of The Ecstasy of St. Theresa, Basketcase's latest collection, testifies to the strength and importance of those small phenomena that often while arising in the corners concerning the daily fashion narrative, represent a part of it that should not be underestimated.