5 brands to discover

In a landscape of homologation, in which even everything that is strange and different seems to us to have already been seen and in which trends encompass instagram feeds so quickly that we become addicted, finding recognisable designers with a structured aesthetic is increasingly difficult. For young talents, it is a complex challenge to maintain their stylistic integrity without being affected by external influences and market rules, without surrendering their aesthetic DNA in favour of trends that would certainly lead to quicker success. In this new monthly column, we want to bring you back the fruits of a daily coolhunting experience by presenting those brands that, among a sea of brands, make sense.

Lirika Matoshi

Lirika Matoshi is a Kosovar-Albanian fashion designer based in New York City who rose to fame thanks to the Internet. In 2016 she had moved to the United States to pursue a degree at the Fashion Institute of Technology, but when her application was rejected, she continued to design in her spare time in a small studio in the Bronx. In 2017 an image of a pair of custom-made tights went viral on Instagram, launching her career, first with sheer stockings embellished with bows and ribbons, then gradually with increasingly complex garments. In 2020, another of Matoshi's designs went just as viral, a tulle dress with a sparkling strawberry motif that led to a 1000% increase in sales for Matoshi. Fresh, feminine dresses embellished with faux fur and rhinestones, but also kidcore details such as pin-studded sleeves and heart motifs, as well as playful prints depicting kittens or coats depicting exotic landscapes. 

Rokh

Four years ago, Rok Hwang was a student of Phoebe Philo at Central Saint Martins. Today, with an LVMH Prize in his pocket and a place in the Paris Fashion Week programme, his strictly sustainable collections tell us about a world of contrasts and tailoring. Deconstructed trench coats, knotted sleeves, leather bags produced in the same factory as Loewe, coats and trousers unbuttoned from the hem, but above all a meticulously curated fit, gathering feedback from the 10 women who make up his team. Minimalism according to Rokh is enriched with multi-tasking details but also deconstructed silhouettes, tartan patterns and 90s grunge atmospheres that make the brand's sartorial aesthetic 'perfectly imperfect'.

Robert Wun

"I wanted to create an army to go to heaven with her" is how Robert Wun motivated his designs that are so reminiscent of the armour of 'angels from the future', a very personal way of mourning his maternal grandmother, as well as a celebration of feminism and femininity. Over the years, Robert Wun has made a name for himself with some successful collaborations with Lady Gaga and Cardi B, as well as designing a dress for actress Elisabeth Banks in the film The Hunger Games: Mockingjay part 2. 2016, however, sees him engaged in a twinning with the Royal Opera House in London, which chooses him to create costumes for the ballet. The fabric is worked to create the illusion of wearing armour, embellished with a pleated fabric, stiff shoulders and straps in profusion, the ultimate post-apocalyptic uniform but with a decidedly sophisticated allure.

GmbH

In summer 2017, GmbH, a German brand launched by a collective of Berlin-based creatives, who also lead the creative direction of Trussardi, measured itself with its first catwalk show during Paris Fashion Week in the spaces of the Institut du monde arabe, immediately after being selected by the jury of the prestigious Prix LVMH for the shortlist of finalists. The two founders are Benjamin Alexander Huseby, a Norwegian-Pakistani fashion photographer and artist, and Serhat Isik, a Turkish-German fashion designer, the minds behind a brand that has based its success on the raver aesthetic of its adopted city, including technical materials, daring cuts, menacing silhouettes and a penchant for black. Vinyl and high-waisted cargo trousers, snow and motocross jackets, chainmail vests and strictly oversized blazers: these are the staples of GmbH's unisex wardrobe.

Marshall Columbia

The Brooklyn-based designer, who moved from Denver to study at the Fashion Institute of Technology, quickly gained a cult following thanks to his plush, glass-beaded bags, constantly sold out on the e-store, trending cut-out sweaters on Ssense and a viral maximalist aesthetic on social media. She has also developed a distinctive visual vocabulary of neon colours, bold cut-outs and kidcore knitwear. His work has already attracted the attention of celebrities such as Miley Cyrus, who recently wore a beaded outfit by the designer for her Backyard Sessions performance, and Hunter Schafer, who wore the green plush bag in a recent IG photo. A brand that speaks directly to Gen Z with garments that are wearable in everyday life and at the same time unique.