The 9 emerging designers of Browns' latest project

Browns Fashion, the British luxury retailer, today presented Browns Focus: Series One, a new program of digital creative experiences and exclusive capsules produced in collaboration with a selection of emerging designers, selected both according to their work but also based on their social commitment in their respective communities. All the designers involved have been given carte blanche on the creativity of their collections and creative concepts, allowing them to freely express and represent themselves and their message. Joe Brunner, Menswear Buyer Next Generation says: 

What was arguably just as important if not more important, was that they needed to have a voice on topics such anti-racism, social inequality and mental health. These conversations are incredibly important to Browns and we wanted to be a vehicle to drive these narratives forward through our community. 

The launch of the project will be presented with an installation both in Browns' new physical store, Browns Brook Street and in the other Brown East location. The presence of these installations wants to tell the community and open attitude of the project – which in fact involved some of the main talents of the English and international scene who become absolute protagonists of the initiative. 

nss magazine has listed below all the 8 designers involved in Browns Focus: Series One with the heads of their respective capsules in the gallery.

Bianca Saunders (@biancasaunders)

For her collection, designer Bianca Saunders was inspired by her personal history and the environment in which she lives. The capsule's colour palette is inspired by a trip to Jamaica that Saunders made with his mother in the 1970s. Combining this with the classic shapes of the brand and working with Gabriel Moses, silhouettes are the main focal point of the collection, which includes essentials with a clean but strongly structured silhouette in simple colours such as black, brown and white.

Commission (@commission_official)

The founders of the brand, Jin Kay, Dylan Cao and Huy Luong have created a sartorial capsule inspired by womenswear in Southeast Asia produced in the 80s and 90s. The capsule pays homage to the concept of classic femininity, freeing it from the strictly European tradition and promoting a nostalgic and affectionate gaze that wants to combine different traditions - all presented through a retro-looking photographic essay.

Conner Ives (@connerives)

Created entirely from recycled fabrics, Conner Ives' capsule includes dresses made from silk scarves, but also jackets and coats created using fleece blankets. His concept for Browns Focus features a contemporary version of the 90s American catalogue for teenage girls, "Delia's" and was presented through a female cast that combines Gen Z aesthetics and references from the 90s.

Labrum (@labrumlondon)

Labrum founder Foday Dumbuya explores the theme "Work to Live and Live to Work" for Browns, along with his community and the continued inspiration of his native Sierra Leone. This aesthetic goes hand in hand with British tailoring and West African design, telling how it thinks African fashion should be portrayed and trying to create a heritage that future generations can refer to.

LUEDER (@luederstudio)

The sustainable commitment of designer Marie Lueder is the basis of the creation of always recognizable silhouettes. Following the commitment to transparency and its tendency to constant reinvention, the brand wants to talk about the vulnerabilities of the present by immersing itself in an unexpected future to reach through a collective journey. Her use of digital avatars interprets the ethos of the brand while in a special moment CGI Marie assigned to the poet James Massiah the task of embodying his collections along with an ongoing commentary on mental health and psyche.

Mariah Esa (@mariah_esa_)

Maintaining sustainability at the centre of her creative work, Mariah Esa has built her collection for Browns entirely from recycled materials, giving each item its unique and unrepeatable touch. Collaborating with photographer Christina Ebenezar and stylist Ola Ebitit, Mariah has created a photographic story that explores her detailed craftsmanship, playing with bright colours such as red and yellow to celebrate South Asia, her homeland.

Maximillian (@_mvximilian_)

Maximilian Davis took inspiration from his childhood memories from Trinidad to create a tailoring collection inspired by 19th-century paintings after the passage of the Emancipation of Slavery Act of 1834. Its bold and bright color palette is designed to create a series of statement pieces that express the essence of his brand's DNA. Maximilian's concept focuses on the bold colors of her outfits and infuses her legacy into filming using sand both as make-up and within the scene.

Saul Nash (@saul.nash)

Saul Nash looks at his previous collections by innovating the gap between activewear and luxury, all finding his way within his niche; celebrating individuality through the theme of dance and movement. Precisely the movement remains the central inspiration of the capsule – captured by the photos of Ewen Spencer, who in his photos enhances the audacity of the colors and the fluidity of the silhouettes.

TSAU (@bevan_agyemang)

BEVAN Agyemang, the founder of TSAU, drew inspiration from a trip to Africa to create the items of his capsule, and especially the seven nights he spent in the desert that brought him back to an ancestral nomadic lifestyle. The collection consists of colorful items that enhance its heritage through a lively use of prints and graphics.